Underdog Psychosis by Ed Little

A KALTBLUT exclusive. Photography by Ed Little. Models are Abdourahman Nnjie signed at Nii Agency and Rolston Bryan, Modou Adams. Fashion all by Jacob Kane. Styled by Emily J Odonnell. Make up by Chess Thornton.

“I recently collaborated with Jacob Kane (a young fashion designer from Manchester School of Art who was hand selected by the British Fashion Council as one of their graduate scholars this year and is definitely a designer to watch).

The shoot, ‘Underdog Psychosis’ explores a subject close to the designers heart. Namely, the effects of gentrification on black youth, which can lead to the idolisation of ‘fast money’ (symbolised in the shoot by Mo & Rolston) and, isolation and despair at the lack of opportunities for the most disadvantaged in society (symbolised by Abdoraham from Campbell Addy’s Nii Agency). It is a subject that coalesces a number of very topical subjects including the housing crisis, the north-south divide and the current political disparity of wealth in the UK – most prominently manifested by the Brexit vote.

This point of view is reflected by Jacob’s own stance of wanting to launch his fashion label in Manchester/Preston (his hometown) rather than seeking to emigrate down to London like most aspiring young designers in order to benefit from the relative ‘fashion’ wealth the city has to offer. In doing so he hopes to advance and flag-bear for the fashion scene in Manchester and hopefully see a redistribution of fashion status across the country – rather than just centralised in London.”