#ModaLisboa! WE ARE IN LOVE!!! Alexandra Moura’s collection for the upcoming Spring/Summer season reinforces the history of the designer and her childhood, evoking the holidays in Trás-os-Montes, near the frontier — Vila Verde da Raia. Memories of her Grandmother Amélia and Grandfather Delfim’s house; the magical immaculate divisions, that were kept clean and tidy for the visit of a guest; the clothes worn for the village’s celebrations and the procession on a bright Sunday. Here two realities of the Designer’s life are joined together, the girl from the city that would feel delighted to go to the village.
With “Heirloom” the heritage of a childhood full of references is reinforced, of a girl from the city that spends her holidays on her grandmother’s house in the countryside.
It is also from there that many of her memories come from, memories from the sensitive side— the scents, tastes; going to the tavern to drink the juice with the taste of the bottle cap, which she so delightful enjoyed; the taste of the corn, the smell of the hand soap and the coffee aroma.
For the prints development were key the memories of floral paintings, reminiscing Impressionism, that would decorate the walls of the living room. Kitsh and elegant hand painted floral china mixed together; vases proudly filled with plastic and fabric flowers with vibrant colours; the mixture of carpets with the floral brocades of the sofa; the satin bed covers contrasting the frills and ties of the curtains, making the bedroom an intimate and holy division. These were some important foundations for the creation of the prints.
Another concept point was the references of grandparents’ clothes. As people from the rural they would dress up on Sundays or for the village’ celebrations, with angels parading in the procession around the religious litter.
The present materials are the embroidered tulle, entitled as “Resplendor”, floral jacquard, denim and cotton, thus establishing a bridge between the classical and the contemporary.
The use in the collection, of tweed with retro tones and total black floral viscose, reveals an intimate connection between the designer and her grandparents, which recalled her garments in these materials.
Relative to the garments shapes and details, the past and present, the city and countryside, are represented as a “collage”, side by side. Influences of a classical and traditional feature come in opposition with the oversized garments with a sportswear feeling, worn by those from the city.
Finally, inspired by the success of the past seasons, Alexandra Moura reintroduces the trench coats, oversized dresses and, collaborating for the fourth time with the Portuguese brand Duffy Sport, puffer jackets and accessories. A new collaboration emerges in this collection, with the footwear Portuguese brand EXCEED Shoe Thinkers, where the sport and traditional concepts are reinforced, creating exemplary well-crafted unisex shoes.
“Heirloom” is all of this— the heritage and seeds that each one of us carries inside.
Photos: Ugo Camera