COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AW16 – An Illustrated Review
Barbara I Gongini AW16
By Hemmersbach Studio. A creative studio based in Copenhagen and founded by Isabella Hemmersbach. “Menswear, layers and Scandinavian colours is what I come to think of when recollecting last week’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. As an illustrator I’m mostly fascinated with volumes, silhuettes, and styling details accentuating the looks.” – Isabella Hemmersbach
With the whole gender “blurrification” thing going on, it was refreshing to see that the new menswear brand Tonsure opened Copenhagen Fashion Week with lot’s of styles, I could see myself wearing. – Helped by Caroline Brasch Nielsen strutting down the runway along side the male models.
Also Maikel Tawadros played with gender stereotypes, sending Vincent Baier down his runway. His collection was a true highlight, with subtle velvet details, clean lines, and military elements. Maikel has come to stay.
A styling detail that stuck with me was the short sleeve over the long sleeved shirts. Which was a detail recurring at Tonsure, Baum und Pferdgarten, Lovechild 1979 and Ganni.
Likewise was the bomber jacket an on going theme, which make for a great silhouette especially when paired with cropped trousers as done in the Vibskov and Han Kjøbenhavn show.
On the other end of the scale there was Mark Tan and By Malene Birger, both amazing a creating feminine shapes, volumes that flatter the female body, and jewellery that make me crave for fall.
Lastly, it was a pure please to see the use of colour. Earthy, Nordic colours were prevailing, reminding of the Scandinavian furniture traditions. Especially Freya Dalsjö reinvented classic sets, such as the full on corduroy set in burnet red, the bomber jacket in Nordic green and purple with violently orange belted shoes. Of course black was well represented too, with Barbara I Gongini as the true master of black.
Værsgod, time to get yourself a piece of Scandinavian classic.