The new ODOR Fall-Winter collection began with the study of the Russian theatre artists of the late XIX-early XX centuries, particularly with the scenography of Natalia Goncharova for Diaghilev’s famous ballets «Russian Seasons». www.atelierodor.com / @atelierodor
Nikita Kalmykov, designer and creative director of ODOR: “Abstract motifs of the ornaments found in Goncharova’s certain sketches had been supplemented with the techniques of creating theatrical costumes of that time – applications and fabric inlays. Following the brand’s DNA, this collection once again adapted recycled materials, used vintage Richelieu lace and an authentic cut of traditional shirts from different Russian provinces. These two trends were brought together not by coincidence: while bohemian life flourished and Diaghilev’s «Russian Seasons» had been triumphantly received in Paris, the traditional clothing was still worn in Russian villages. This combination of «playing Russian», so-called «Russian exotics» revealed in the art of Russian ballet and the way this exotic used to be a reality for most of the Russian Empire, became the main source of inspiration for me. Especially for the look book shooting, I created painting modules – a reference to the scenery of mobile theatres, which were manually changed during the performance”.
The collection includes a lot of wool, different types of cotton and wet silk, vintage buttons and ribbons. Mohair knitwear, cashmere and silk velvet are presented for the first time.
In the new season, the following accessories will be presented for the first time: hats, bags and headscarves. Among headwear are a cap made of Afghan broadtail (karakul), a woollen beanie hat lined with wild silk, and a woollen four cones hat inspired by the traditional headdress of northern people. Hats are complemented with removable coloured garters, headscarves and bags are made in the patchwork style being a reference to the handicraft techniques. The colour-blocking technique is used for the outerwear lining and accessories reminding us of Suprematism.