After the Storm Comes the Calm: Ann Demeulemeester’s Serene Revival- This old saying, known by many, perfectly encapsulates the recent journey of the renowned Belgian fashion house, Ann Demeulemeester. Following the departure of their former creative director, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the brand found solace in the appointment of Italian designer Stefano Gallici, who seemed to infuse a sense of tranquillity into the brand.
Ever since the news broke, the fashion industry eagerly anticipated the unfolding path that Gallici would pave for Demeulemeester. Their curiosity went beyond mere novelty; it was a collective desire to move forward, to embrace the new while cherishing the legacy of the brand founded by the illustrious Ann herself, a member of the esteemed group known as “the Antwerp Six.”
The hype surrounding this particular showcase reached unprecedented heights. The team behind the event managed the impossible, transforming the Saint-Denis district of Paris into the “place to be” for those few enchanting hours. Attendees overcame obstacles to arrive on time, illuminating the immense entrance of the show with their mobile torches, as darkness intertwined with the signature black aesthetic of the house. With the majority of guests also dressed in black, a rarity of colours filled the room and the collection. Shades of white, beige, electric blue, and khaki green dominated the palette, adorning the garments. While seemingly limited, this selection combined flawlessly with avant-garde silhouettes and impeccably crafted pieces, resulting in an exquisite feast for the senses, particularly the eyes.
Through captivating visuals, one could perceive how Stefano Gallici meticulously delved into Ann Demeulemeester’s rich heritage, unravelling its codes and reimagining them with his unique touch, all while preserving their essence. The intertwining identities of both designers were harmoniously discernible—a truly commendable feat.
A.D.’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection offers an empowering sense of freedom—a sanctuary for individual expression without constraints. Each garment is meticulously designed to blur boundaries, encouraging personal exploration and shaping one’s own sartorial landscape. Whether it’s the black leather sashes cinching the suits and accentuating the models’ silhouettes, the enigmatic transparency of the clothes that deceived our eyes, the silk drapes emulating fluid tails, or the intriguing knitted pieces sculpting the abdomen into circular forms, all captivated our attention.
It seems that the legacy of Ann Demeulemeester will gracefully continue, thanks to the artistic vision of Stefano Gallici. Let us hope that this evolution remains true to its roots—a beacon of harmony and creativity within the fashion world. anndemeulemeester.com
