Backstage at rebekka ruétz Fall/Winter 2026 - LILITH

Berlin Fashion Week! The LILITH collection by Rebekka Ruétz reinterprets the figure of Lilith, presenting her not solely as an emblem of provocation or rebellion but as a representation of wholeness. This collection embraces the previously demonised and rejected aspects of femininity, integrating them into a multifaceted portrayal that embodies both fear and dignity, strength and vulnerability, light and shadow. The narrative surrounding Lilith extends beyond myth; it speaks to a historical context where female autonomy has often been perceived as a threat. Here, rebellion is acknowledged as a natural response to societal attributions, absorbed into a rich tapestry of complexity.

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Phoros by Annika Yanura @annikayanura

The design process is fluid; silhouettes evolve through interaction with the body rather than being fixed from the outset. Draping techniques are refined, and materials are tested until the essence of each look reveals itself. In this way, Lilith is not merely a character on paper but emerges through the act of creation.

A notable aspect of the collection is the incorporation of real moss, serving as a living material that embodies concepts of time, decay, and renewal. It interacts with movement, leaving traces and emphasising that the garments are not finished products but living entities that carry their histories. This approach challenges the notion of perfection, favouring the themes of transformation, presence, and impermanence instead.

The colour palette is both precise and layered. Raven black serves as a foundation, while variations of red manifest: a dark blood red signifies origin, a vivid red embodies impulse, and a deep purplish red evokes mythic elements. Shades of white transition from bone white to serpent-like textures and dirty beige, creating a dynamic interplay between grounding and shimmer, corporeality and transcendence.

Materials are thoughtfully chosen for their significance. Upcycled, recycled, and deadstock fabrics form the core of the collection, enhanced by sustainable lace, organic cotton denim, cast natural latex in a serpent finish, and traditional Tyrolean loden. Certified materials like Tencel are utilised for prints, offering contrasts between textures that shape both surface and meaning.

Silhouettes draw from a minimalist avant-garde framework, where sculptural corsetry encounters fluid draping, and rigid materials are juxtaposed against movement. Volume is achieved through both structured construction and organic dissolution. The body is displayed rather than concealed, emphasising a sense of companionship in style.

Rather than simply a collection, LILITH represents a position that invites complexity rather than oversimplification. The clothing becomes a medium through which often suppressed or demonised aspects of identity are articulated, allowing for a broader dialogue.

Hair & Makeup: A Vision by Sam Hill

The visual dimensions of the collection are further enriched by the work of Sam Hill, the founder and makeup artist of the Inclover Agency. Hill’s approach to hair and makeup draws upon key motifs of LILITH, transforming them into an expressive visual layer that enhances the collection’s narrative.

With over 400 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, hair accessories, masks, and braided caps made from vegan materials become pivotal elements of the styling. These pieces oscillate between functioning as a second skin and serving as protective shells, reflecting themes of innocence and strength, vulnerability, and the demonic qualities often ascribed to Lilith.

A central theme is the externalisation of inner structures, abstracting the anatomy of female identity and revealing often-hidden facets. Elements such as the serpent, moss, and organic textures are not presented literally but in an abstract form, allowing their visceral impact to be felt on multiple levels.

The hairstyling and makeup balance raw, untamed textures with crisp, graphic lines. This concept is rounded off with custom-made sculptural nail designs that resonate with the materials and motifs of the collection, extending the visual narrative throughout every detail.

Brand Identity: Rebekka Ruétz

Rebekka Ruétz embodies a contemporary avant-garde perspective, where fashion is appreciated as an artistic language. Each collection melds minimalist design with precise construction and an experimental approach to materials, prioritising attitude over mere ornamentation.

Clear silhouettes, intentional ruptures, and a process-oriented methodology are integral to the brand’s philosophy. Fabrics are recontextualised, facilitating a relationship between garments and the body that often materialises through the process of creation.

Sustainability is central to the brand’s ethos, with a consistent focus on upcycled, recycled, and deadstock materials, complemented by durable fabrics and local craftsmanship. The label appeals to an audience that perceives fashion as a medium of self-expression, reflection, and artistic intent, transcending transient trends.