Showcasing an unequivocal blend of artistry and activism, BUZIGAHILL’s inaugural runway show at Berlin Fashion Week took us on a compelling journey with its latest collection, RETURN TO SENDER 11 (RTS11). Set in the chic confines of the FÜRST venue on the illustrious Kurfürstendamm, the anticipation in the air was palpable as the audience sat in respectful silence, fully aware of the gravity of this moment.
The evening commenced with an arresting soundtrack featuring spoken passages from the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, rendered in 17 languages. The powerful finish, emphasising that “All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights,” laid the groundwork for a collection that transcends mere fashion, offering a poignant commentary on textile colonialism, agency, and reclaiming one’s narrative.
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Words by Marcel Schlutt and Nico Sutor
All photos by Andreas-Hofrichter
From Waste to Wonder: RETURN TO SENDER 11
RTS11 extends BUZIGAHILL’s thought-provoking RETURN TO SENDER project, a forthright critique of the global second-hand clothing market. Each piece is a reincarnation, sourced from the second-hand abundance of Europe, North America, or Asia, making its way to Uganda’s Owino Market, the heartbeat of Kampala’s second-hand fashion scene. Here, garments are meticulously cleaned and reimagined, transforming them into one-of-a-kind statements imbued with their original contexts.
This collection serves up a dazzling array of deconstructed silhouettes, hand-stitched patchwork, and unexpected cuts that highlight the journey of each fabric. Standout pieces, such as a tucked maxi dress fashioned from six repurposed shirts and delicately pleated for volume, redefine modern elegance. Meanwhile, denim, a staple from the collection, emerges in various forms: bleached, layered, and boldly punctuated with fragmented waistbands, playing into streetwear aesthetics that juxtapose classic tailoring with casual flair.
Sustainability shines through with biodegradable creations like the sculpted cassava bustier, a collaborative masterpiece made with Lyndah Katusiime, alongside hand-knotted fringe dresses crafted from old T-shirts. The collection’s heart beats louder with embroidered slogans such as “TRY JESUS” and “BELIFVE,” echoing the vibrant tapestry of Kampala’s taxi culture while integrating the traditional stitching techniques of the Milaya Project, a collective of South Sudanese women artisans weaving legacy into the fabric.
Each exquisite piece comes with a unique “passport” tracing its story of origin, material, and production, inviting the audience to engage in a critical dialogue about consumption and ownership.
A Collective Vision
The alchemy of creativity behind RTS11 resulted from a collaborative effort, where stylist Ajatum Mercy sculpted the visual narrative, and casting was curated by Regina Murtazina. The evocative soundtrack, composed by Masaka Masaka, created an unforgettable atmosphere. As the resonating final notes of the Universal Declaration faded into silence, the room erupted into applause, an acknowledgement of the profound energy and relevance encapsulated in this extraordinary show.
Among the audience were luminaries shaping not just fashion but the broader cultural conversation: actress Florence Kasumba, Christiane Arp of Fashion Council Germany, cultural journalist Hadnet Tesfai, and choreographer Nikeata Thompson, to name a few. Many left visibly moved, underscoring the collection’s electrifying energy and the pressing timeliness of its themes.
Presented as part of the curated NEWEST format, the show occurred against the backdrop of FÜRST, a site reflecting the complex interplay between capitalist histories and cultural redefinitions. BUZIGAHILL was spotlighted in the Berlin Contemporary category of the Berlin Fashion Week concept competition, marking a pivotal moment as international labels were welcomed into the fold. This initiative, sponsored by the Senate Department for Economic Affairs, underscores the potential of fashion to drive imperatives of sustainability and social justice.
About BUZIGAHILL
Founded by Bobby Kolade, BUZIGAHILL embodies a vision that intertwines culture with critical practice. With roots in Sudan and Nigeria and experiences at fashion houses like Maison Margiela and Balenciaga, Kolade’s ethos channels into BUZIGAHILL’s mission to confront the repercussions of global second-hand clothing flows on Uganda’s textile landscape.
RETURN TO SENDER serves not only as a collection but as a collective rejection of the passive role within the fashion supply chain, igniting a discourse on the confluence of art, politics, and the responsibility of fashion.
For more information, visit www.buzigahill.com and follow on Instagram: @buzigahill.official
