Leo Prothmann’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, ‘Atnes’, unveiled at The Mandrake Hotel, transported us to the hauntingly beautiful shores of Dungeness—where it all began. With a concept brewing from an emotional journey, Prothmann and his partner wandered through the desolate landscapes, riddled with paradoxical emotions: completeness and emptiness, fullness yet loneliness. These contrasting sentiments, mirroring the complexity of Prothmann’s bond with his partner, became the cornerstone of this collection.
www.instagram.com/leoprothmann / www.leoprothmann.com
A narrative of resilient women navigating the shores emerged, infused with references to Prothmann’s own sustained relationship. The designs echo summers spent in Spain, from countryside mornings to sunset dinners, channelling effortless elegance and strength. This dedication artfully layers personal history onto the runway.
Sustainability is woven into the fabric of this collection with an exclusive collaboration with ECCO Leather. Utilizing deadstock and otherwise unusable skins, Prothmann is committed to a circular and environmentally responsible approach. Hand-stitched and saddle-stitched Victorian techniques meet contemporary demands, resulting in timeless, sustainable offerings.
Innovative textures, inspired by Japanese upholstery, were crafted by layering leather off-cuts on netting, creating breathable, heat-friendly materials. Prothmann’s sculptural creativity thrives on rounded, cocoon-like silhouettes, reminiscent of sculptor Hede Bühl’s influence. Picture humans emerging from the ocean in futuristic, snail-like shells—a visual testament to Prothmann’s artistic vision.
Rick Owens’ collaboration on boots earlier this year resurfaces with adapted and recoloured variations for the women’s season. An intriguing fusion of past partnerships and future-forward design.
Popcorn knits draped and hand-stitched to replicate netting residues, and distressed fabric organically rusted by the elements, all tell a story of craftsmanship deeply rooted in environmental observation. Colours drawn from Whitechapel’s aged bricks and metal finishes combine with hues from Prothmann’s own 2021 painting, “What Do You See,” culminating in a rich, vibrant palette.
In a heartfelt gesture, ‘M’ shirts stand as a tribute to Prothmann’s brother, Max, symbolizing unwavering support through his battle with a brain tumour. Proceeds from these shirts will bolster the Brain Tumour Research Foundation in Berlin.
Personal and intimate, this collection rebels against the denial of emotion. A poignant note of gratitude rings through each piece, a love letter to Senta, Prothmann’s muse and one and only.
