French designer LOU DE BÈTOLY unveiled a breathtaking F/W25 womenswear collection that quickly became our favourite moment at Berlin Fashion Week. Set against the enchanting backdrop of the historic Spiegelsaal at Clärchens Ballhaus, the show was perfectly punctuated by the haunting notes of a solitary grand piano, effortlessly elevating the atmosphere.
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all photos by Boris Marberg @borismarberg
This collection is perhaps the most ethereal yet, intertwining a playful yet provocative conversation with haute couture traditions. LOU DE BÈTOLY’s forty looks, each meticulously crafted from pre-owned materials, showcase an intuitive approach that marries innovation and nostalgia. Forgotten treasures are reborn into contemporary masterpieces that exude both drama and luxury, revealing the designer’s trademark wink to sartorial tradition.
The craftsmanship on display is truly exceptional. Vintage nightgowns have been sensuously pleated and draped by hand, resulting in each piece flowing with a liquid-like fluidity. Deconstructed brassieres emerge as architectural bodices, while intricate lace seems to dissolve weightlessly against the skin. One notable highlight includes the ingenious restructuring of pink bed sheets from an earlier set design into sumptuous fur-like two-piece suits, showcasing BÈTOLY’s ability to elevate the most modest materials.
Technical virtuosity shines through in myriad ways: reflective bike fragments collected from Berlin’s streets shimmer in halter tops, while leather jackets are sliced and gathered into playful ruffles. A vintage silk blanket, lovingly beaded by hand, finds new life as a stunning evening gown, while braided leather belts transform into structured tops. Handmade knit pieces adorned with chicken feathers gathered from the designer’s parents’ garden inject a personal narrative into the sustainable ethos of the collection.
Contrasts create dramatic tension throughout, with structured tweed sets offsetting delicate silk dresses featuring sculptural pleating. A standout bridal ensemble—crafted from decomposing lace and sparkling embellishments—brilliantly navigates the delicate line between fragility and opulence. Mohair threads are woven through transparent nylon knit dresses like abstract brushstrokes, creating an otherworldly allure.
For this season, LOU DE BÈTOLY has collaborated with several partners, including eBay, which provided vintage treasures ripe for reinvention. This partnership not only demonstrates the creative potential of circular fashion but also highlights eBay’s pivotal role in sustainable luxury. Additionally, the collection showcases chic leather handbags by Berlin’s own Liebeskind, adorned with BÈTOLY’s signature beaded crochet and whimsical charms, alongside draped silhouettes fashioned from deadstock fabric courtesy of the iconic American workwear brand Dickies.
With the F/W25 collection, LOU DE BÈTOLY transcends conventional boundaries between fashion, art, and traditional craftsmanship, transforming forgotten treasures into exquisite luxury pieces, all while keeping the spirit light and humorous. Truly, this collection is a radiant testament to the magic of sustainable fashion in the hands of a master artisan.
