The foreboding echo of Potsdamer Platz was transformed into a mythic arena as designer Marie Lueder introduced audiences to her latest conception, the “Mono-Myth” collection, a narrative splayed across fabric and dye, presented as a crucial fragment of the Intervention by Reference Studios spectacle.
Marie Lueder Unravels “Mono-Myth” at Berlin Fashion Week: The Alchemy of Armored Apparel
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Runway Photo Credits: James Cochrane for LUEDER @jamescochranephoto
Header, backstage image by Ioannis Papadakis @___ioannes
In Lueder’s cosmology, menswear is not mere clothing but functional talismans, swathing the wearer in protective layers devised for the soul, spirit, and physical vessel. These essentials—denim, jersey, eco-nylon—transmute into the very texture of the journey, heralding sustainability as past, present, and future converge in cloth.
Lueder masterfully wields the tools of her craft, taught to construct, only to triumph in the realm of deconstruction. Her designs incarnate the intrepid voyage of the archetype, with Tintoria Emiliana’s custom dye techniques seeping originality into the fibres of engineered flare jeans, armoured hoodies, and reimagined joggers, all intimately kissed by human hands.
Colors meld into the visual poetry of burning timber; petrol darks, fervid pinks, stripes of crimson akin to the life force, and the monochromatic greys and blacks echoing the rebirth from ashes in the knitwear and reconstructed LUEDER suit silhouettes.
The vibrant collaboration extends its roots into the community, grasping hands with artisans—Vibram 5 Fingers sculpting the contours of footwear, Mia Violet’s airbrush finesse, 4FSB’s cap designs, and the symbiotic fusion with Théo Casciani and Esther Mejbowski’s myth-building and graphic artistry. Tom Schneider engineers the show, Rat Section resounds with sonic landscapes, Marius Perraud gilding with jewellery—the collection is indeed not an island, but a continent of shared visions.
Lueder’s “Mono-Myth” dovetails the meanderings of SUN AT NIGHT, a path laden with chiaroscuro, a perpetual tussle between shadows and enlightenment. This reality myth, pulsating with positivity, unity, and solace, is experienced not as mere fashion but as a cultural odyssey, with Tati Cotliar carving the spectacles and Emma Matell architecting the kinetic sculptures of models moving through space.
Marie Lueder: The Weaver of Functional Fantasies
Emerging from Intervention’s creative incubator, Marie Lueder’s “Mono-Myth” Autumn/Winter 2024 unfolds a tableau of panelled denim, recurved spirals, and the discord of modern life anxieties etched into textiles. Radiating from her Hamburg origins, Lueder offers more than garments—she presents metaphorical cuirasses, born of the clash against unseen mental adversities.
Lueder’s academic sojourn through Hamburg’s fashion schools and the hallowed halls of London’s Royal College of Arts distils in her designs an intellectual gravitas. A newcomer only in chronology, Lueder’s aesthetic channels seasoned wisdom, earning her a reverent nod at London Fashion Week and the courtship of retail aristocracy like Browns.
As the “Mono-Myth” enfolds you in its narrative, remember here stands not just a collection but a tome borne of warp and weft, a doctrine of Renaissance in the garment form, an armoured embrace from a designer who learned to construct and discovered the sublime freedom in unravelling.
