Last week at Berlin Fashion Week, our gaze was firmly set on LUEDER, a brand that continues to captivate and inspire within the dynamic realm of fashion. Presented at RAUM by the Fashion Council Germany, this collection boldly speaks to the collision of creative references, skillfully intertwining the raw sensuality of Tobias Spichtig’s paintings, the haunting resonance of the film Powder, and the evocative charm of medieval leather gloves, reimagined to unveil hidden jewels. Moreover, the late Mark Fisher’s incisive writings, particularly Ghosts of My Life, echo through the collection, conjuring a world where vulnerability, aggression, nostalgia, and desire harmoniously coexist.
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lookbook photos by @ansgar_sollmann
A New Era of Sensuality and Strength by LUEDER at Berlin Fashion Week
This season, LUEDER unfurls a narrative that is undeniably more sensual and provocative, stripped back yet robust. The pieces embody a spirited exploration of engineered fashion, designed not just for aesthetic appeal but for real life, moving effortlessly through various contexts. The collection plays with the dance of light and shadow, confidence and fragility, challenging notions of nostalgia not as a refuge but as a provocative landscape for transformation.
Material innovation shines at the heart of this collection. For the first time, LUEDER introduces pinstriped suiting, seamlessly drawing from a heritage steeped in bespoke tailoring. Yet, in a refreshing twist, these fabrics are used in a relaxed, unexpected manner—elevating the pinstripe from mere tradition into a symbol of nuanced formality. This season also boasts a striking collaboration with an Italian mill that supplied an avant-garde, lightweight flocked nylon in camouflage, adding a futuristic edge and sharp contrast to the overall aesthetic.
LUEDER’s collection is an embodiment of hybrid influences, melding sportswear with meticulous sartorial details and medieval silhouettes. Delving into the concept of armour, LUEDER captures the desire for protection while celebrating freedom of expression and individuality. Committed to sustainability, the brand employs organic denim, recycled jersey, and regennylon in its creations, a thoughtful nod to our planet.
As LUEDER strides forward, she has also earned her place on the shortlist for the Vogue Fashion Fund in September 2024, whilst showcasing at BFW for the past three seasons. This is not merely fashion; it’s a compelling statement that beckons us all to explore the complexities of our identities through the art of clothing.
