London Fashion Week welcomes a bold new voice as Naomi Hart unveils Unproductive Thinking, her Fall/Winter 2025 collection. A fusion of sculpted silhouettes, avant-garde tailoring, and poetic contrasts, this collection is more than fashion—it’s a dreamlike exploration of identity and empowerment. Raised in the Peak District by an artist father, Hart’s love for motorcycling and organic forms translates into powerful leatherwork and structured elegance, treating the body as a canvas for storytelling.
Taking cues from 1960s counterculture and surrealist influences, Unproductive Thinking channels the whimsical chaos of Alice in Wonderland while drawing inspiration from David Lynch’s Strange and Unproductive Thinking (2011). The soundtrack, curated by Freya Everest, blends Lynch’s musings with Al Bowlly’s Midnight, the Stars and You, nodding to Kubrick’s The Shining and setting an eerie, cinematic mood.
The collection thrives on contrasts—flared trousers in canary yellow and cornsilk hues exude youthful optimism before giving way to deep burgundies and noir leather, symbolizing transformation. Architectural necklines, quilted jackets, and militant coats in electric lavender and carmine reflect Hart’s fascination with duality, while futuristic charcoal neoprene and monochrome florals pay homage to Courrèges’ space-age modernism.
Marbled fabrics take centre stage, mirroring the hidden brilliance of geodes—ordinary on the outside, yet dazzling within. Naomi stitches veined merlot leather into layered panels, creating depth and movement, an ode to identity’s concealed richness. The biker aesthetic remains a signature, encapsulating power, confidence, and freedom. “The ‘Biker Girl’ represents liberation,” Hart shares. “I’ve never felt more alive than on a motorbike.”
The collection’s showstopper, a quilted scarlet taffeta coat, started as a toile before being reimagined into a runway masterpiece—symbolizing Hart’s sustainable craftsmanship and ever-evolving vision. She treats fashion as an evolving art form, where each garment is sculpted with precision and personal expression.
As the show closes, one thing is certain: Naomi Hart is not just designing clothes—she is sculpting identity, painting with fabric, and redefining contemporary luxury. With Unproductive Thinking, she invites us to embrace contradiction, lose ourselves in the dreamscape, and experience fashion without boundaries.
Words by Lewis Robert Cameron
Photography @rosslynphotography
Designer @naomihartlondon
@i.deapr
