In the avant-garde world of fashion, haseman.n emerges as a trailblazer, treating clothing and imagery as profound vehicles for a more mindful engagement with our surroundings. Each piece, thoughtfully conceived and meticulously crafted in Germany, serves not only as wearable art but also as an invitation to tread softly through the world, imagining a gentle bunny wandering through its woods, embodying serenity and grace.
Running from January 30th to February 14th at PLATTE Store, this exhibition metamorphoses the space into an engaging visual showroom, a vibrant fusion where fashion dances with motion design and identity. Six visionary designers, handpicked by a distinguished jury that includes talents such as Nan Li of Namilia, Lisa from the Bergstrand Consultancy, and iconic photographer Sven Marquardt, embody the essence of innovation, sustainability, and craftsmanship that will shape the future of fashion.
Marquardt’s curation forms a dialogue among these creative perspectives, crafting an immersive installation that offers an insightful glimpse into a refreshing approach to presenting NEXT GEN fashion. This initiative not only provides a vital platform for emerging designers but also enhances retail visibility during Berlin Fashion Week, alongside invaluable mentorship from industry luminaries and direct access to consumers, media, and the multifaceted fashion landscape.
NEXT GEN is more than an event; it heralds a transformative chapter in Berlin fashion, brimming with bold collaboration and a commitment to community-driven ethos. Join us as we celebrate the future of this dynamic industry, redefining what it means to express oneself through fashion.
@svenmarquardt / @platte.berlin
Follow: @haseman.n / haseman-n.com
Photography by @arnaud.ele
Interview @marcel_schlutt
KALTBLUT: Can you tell us about the inspiration behind your current collection showcased at the NEXT GEN exhibition in Platte Berlin?
Recently, there has been a lot of change in my life, so I have not really been able to work uninterrupted on a single collection.
What I am showing at Next Gen instead is a series of garments that I have developed on and off during the last year. In a slow but continuous process of making, each piece came from the learnings of the one before. My guiding principle throughout was the German expression ‘auf leisen pfoten’ – ‘on quiet paws’.
KALTBLUT: How do you integrate sustainability into your design process?
Like I said, on quiet paws is the mantra behind my way of working. To me, it means being observant and considerate of the impact my actions have on my surroundings and the environment at large. I put a lot of care into the selection and treatment of my materials, so I only use fabrics from either small mills working with natural fibres, deadstock suppliers or vintage marketplaces. The finishes, like the dye, the thread and the buttons I use, are also taken into account and chosen on the basis of regionality, durability, and biodegradability. The goal is to create well-crafted objects that can stand the test of time, both physically and stylistically.
KALTBLUT: How important is a space like Platte Berlin for you as a designer?
Having a space like Platte Berlin is super valuable to me. In times when it is quite hard to make a living with creative work and budgets in arts and culture are being cut, it is really reassuring and uplifting to have Platte champion young designers and help us on our journey.
KALTBLUT: How would you describe Platte Berlin if you can use only 3 words?
Genuine, open, supportive
KALTBLUT: What challenges have you faced as an emerging designer in the Berlin fashion scene?
I am constantly struggling to find a stable financial footing as a designer and filmmaker, since the cost of living is high and good workspaces are rare and expensive, too.
Besides the things I have to do to be able to pay my rent every month, it is not always easy to find enough time to work on my designs as much as I would like to.
KALTBLUT: How has participating in the NEXT GEN program influenced your growth as a designer?
I think it is a great opportunity to meet people who are at a similar point in their careers. We can learn from each other and also make use of the generous support and expertise Platte is offering to hopefully be able to grow together.
KALTBLUT: In your view, what role does collaboration play in the fashion industry today?
I think it is incredibly important. Collaborating with like-minded people makes navigating the fashion industry much more enjoyable than doing so on your own.
It has not only sparked great friendships in my life, but it also opened new doors to ideas I wouldn’t have thought of on my own, especially because I feel like the most interesting creative discoveries can be made in between disciplines. What I really like about the current Berlin fashion scene is the general attitude of wanting to work together instead of against each other.
KALTBLUT: Who are your biggest influences or mentors in the fashion world, and how have they impacted your work?
My biggest influences are definitely the designers I have worked with before coming to Berlin: Pal Offner, Jan Jan van Essche and Kitschy Couture.
Seeing how all of them have been able to overcome challenges while staying true to their creative vision and, on top of that, managing to be really lovely people, has always given me a lot of hope and courage to keep working on my own designs. It showed me that even though it is difficult for small labels to succeed, it might be worth it to try, as long as you have good people around you.
KALTBLUT: Can you describe the creative process you went through while developing your latest pieces?
The latest pieces are iterations of a waistcoat that I made a long while ago during my studies and that I have been constantly wearing ever since. Now felt like a good time to re-approach the pattern.
I recently saw Andrei Tarkovsky’s Nostalghia, and especially the run-down abbey in its final images, is stuck in my head. So I wanted to translate it into the waistcoat.
To achieve a similar colour scheme of washed out greys, greens and brown,s I repeatedly dyed a piece of Belgian linen with walnut and iron. to honor the abbey’s gothic architecture and it’s faint remnants of ornamentation, I went onto a bodice with my existing pattern and draped a new front, adding a bigger overlap and a ruched vintage lace detail. I am really happy with how the final garment turned out, and it will be available at the next gen popup.
KALTBLUT: What message do you wish to convey to your audience through your designs?
Once again, I am going to come back to my mantra on quiet paws. It evokes exactly the kind of attitude I would like to convey with my work.
There seems to be a tendency, and it is incentivised for everyone to be as loud as possible all the time. As a result, everyone just yells at each other, expecting to be heard, but not taking the time to fully listen.
I treat clothing and imagery as vehicles for proposing a more considered way of interacting with the world. I would like to invite the wearer of my garments to be less preoccupied with making bold, immediate statements, but to be more respectful and open to what their surroundings might have to offer them if they just slowed down a bit before speaking up.
KALTBLUT: How do you envision the future of fashion, particularly in the context of emerging designers and sustainability?
Somewhat selfishly, I hope that small designers who truly value craftsmanship and devote themselves to making better garments will prevail in the long run. Since luxury fashion and fast fashion have basically become interchangeable and arrived at a dead end, I feel like the time is ripe for a collective reconsideration of what fashion should be.
I hope that, although there are surely challenging times ahead, they will not lead people towards chasing more cheap and fleeting thrills, but towards seeing the value that can lie in surrounding yourself with fewer, but more carefully created objects.
KALTBLUT: What advice would you give to aspiring designers looking to make their mark in the fashion industry?
I think I am really not in a position to answer that question. Maybe ask me again in ten years
KALTBLUT: How would you describe the local fashion scene/industry in your hometown/country?
I grew up in a small town near Lake Constance, where there wasn’t a fashion scene or industry to speak of. When I was young, my epitome of cool and the edge of my horizon was the h&m in the next biggest city. I then really discovered my interest in fashion through music and the internet, and I fell in love with it as a means of distinguishing myself from my classmates. Much of my time at school was spent staring out the window and dreaming of what the world outside of Stockach might have to offer me someday.
KALTBLUT: If your brand were ice cream, what flavours would it be?
Black sesame, pistachio and caramel.
KALTBLUT: What was the last music track you listened to?
All Flowers in Time Bend Towards the Sun by Elizabeth Fraser and Jeff Buckley. I have been listening to it almost obsessively
KALTBLUT: Finally, what can we expect to see from you in the near future?
More and different wearable products, a stronger focus on haseman.n in both the design and filmmaking paths of my work, and a very special collaboration with a friend of mine who does jewellery. I am already excited to share that relatively soon!
Creative Direction by Katharine De Siqueira @martin.de.siqueira
PHOTOGRAPHER Arnaud Ele @arnaud.ele
Light Assistant Lea Comprelle @ghostlyours
Production Lead Annika Malz @anni.mlz
Production Assistant 1 Evren Santiago Kukul @evren.santiago
Production Assistant 2 Aliya Krause @aliyakrs_
BTS Hayden Vassilkov @alchem7st
BTS Kevin Kurth @kevinkurthh
HMU Sue Eder @sue_eder
STYLING Julian Stamm @julianstamm
MODELS
Model 1 Arthur Kloens @arthur.kloens
Model 2 Marie Zechiel @mariezechiel
Model 3 Angelita Fortres @angelitasfortress
Model 4 Elizabeth López @_lizlpz
