NICOMEDE. EPISODE. 4 draws on a typically innovative and original source of references that collide to create a look that is progressive, modernistic, soulful and fresh. The spirit of brotherhood within a tribe of boys who protect each other and fight for good runs throughout the collection.
London-based Nicomede Talavera continues to tread the line between the familiar and fantasy. Through a strong focus on research and an observant spirit, the label is innately personal with a collage of ideas that are a magnet for the eyes. Interpretations of functional sportswear have always been present in Talavera’s work and this season he turned his focus to Fencing and Boxing. Alongside reoccurring NICOMEDE. aesthetic themes, such as 1950s women’s couture, historical dress, utility uniforms, military, organic forms and crystals.
Made in London is an important brand value and the Talavera is consciously minded. Each episode has a focus on sourcing the best sustainable materials; Episode 4 includes organic cotton drill and organic cotton shirting fabrics, recycled synthetic eco- gaberdine, eco-satin and surplus fabrics from past seasons and mills.
The NICOMEDE. community evolves this season to include Headwear with Milliner James Pink, Knitwear with Kepler and the continuation of a Jewellery partnership with Ekaterina Pronina.
Since founding NICOMEDE. in 2019, it was Talavera’s intention to not work in isolation and to celebrate other creative’s skills and the beauty and purity of artisan craftsmanship. A shared purpose and fluid dialogue foster creativity and this process heroes each partner’s signature skills and techniques to create something new. Passion and care are put into creating each piece, that is rich in magic.
The NICOMEDE.JAMESPINKSTUDIO hats have the youthful energy of a bucket hat, combined with the refined protection of a helmet. A concise palette of black, white, neutral, and brown is played out in more, satin and mesh. With herringbone webbed tape and grosgrain ribbons weaving through belt loops.
An iconic fencing faceguard (the ultimate protective item), is turned horizontally to inspire a peaked hat style – with a quilted brim, layered mesh top, angular ear guards and silver eyelets.
NICOMEDE.KEPLER is unique as it’s the first time the womenswear knitwear label has partnered with another ready-to-wear label. Talavera has been friends with Alexandra Hadjikyriacou and Jaimee Mckenna since they studied together at Central St Martins.
The fusion of womenswear and menswear principles combine to create a capsule of four refreshing knitwear pieces. Draped asymmetric necklines, collide with graphic and debossed intarsia patterns, colour blocking and slashed ribbed cuffs. A key item is the artisanal handmade Shetland wool knit in a deep burnt orange tone with a subtle fleck. The signature Kepler corsetry silhouette marries the notions and proportions of a fencing uniform to create flattering curved hemlines.
The fourth season of the NICOMEDE.EKATERINAPRONINA jewellery partnership, with former Central Saint Martins’ MA classmate Ekaterina Pronina, sees the shapes, techniques and materiality pushed to new heights. With a collection that plays with refinement and abundance through a conversation around what the work of Constantin Brâncuși might look like in 2021.
