With her clothing brand Riot Grrrl, 28-year-old stylist and fashion designer Gwenmi Lai creates armour-like pieces rooted in punk culture and political messaging. Heavily inspired by the underground feminist punk movement of the same name that emerged in the US in the early 90s, Gwenmi’s designs imagine what the Riot Grrrls of the present and future might look like. She’s dressed rising stars in Taipei’s rap, hip-hop, and electronic music scenes, and recently exhibited at Dissident’s Temple of the Body show in Berlin.
KALTBLUT caught up with Gwenmi to chat about her cultural influences, her research-based approach to design, and launching her brand in Europe.
KALTBLUT: Could you briefly introduce yourself and your path into fashion design?
Gwen: Sure – I’m Gwen, and I was born and raised in Taipei. I began studying fashion design when I was 20, with some short courses at Central Saint Martins in London. When I returned to Taiwan, I got into Shih Chien University, the best design school in the country, and studied there for four years. I’ve been working as a stylist and designer ever since.
KALTBLUT: How did the concept of your brand, Riot Grrrl, come about?
Gwen: It’s inspired by the Riot Grrrl subculture that began in the Pacific Northwest of the US in the early 90s. During my studies, I came across a book about punk music history and made a note about Riot Grrrl in my phone, which I rediscovered around the time of my graduation project. I dug into the movement and fell in love with it. It was this radical feminist subculture that challenged the male-dominated punk scene at the time. They did these crazy stunts, like cutting up fake dicks on stage at punk shows, and pushed for women’s and queer rights. I designed punk-infused looks for my final project, ‘Riot Grrrl’s New Era’, and just kept going after I graduated. Making clothes is the way I express myself and advocate for what I believe in.
KALTBLUT: Why were you so drawn to the movement, and how does it relate to your life today?
Gwen: Taiwan is kind of like the pioneer of LGBTQ+ rights in Asia – we were the first country to recognise same-sex marriage – so I feel like the spirit of Riot Grrrl makes sense here. But despite being a role model for progressive politics in Asia, there’s still a lot of work to do. Gender inequality is still a huge issue. So I wanted to imagine what the Riot Grrrls of today would look like. For me, they’re brave, fearless, dangerous, and sexy, using their bodies to confront lingering discrimination.
KALTBLUT: Could you speak about your creative process and the materials, colours, and silhouettes you like to work with?
Gwen: It’s a really research-based approach. I observe details in my day-to-day life, or dig into iconic moments in literature, film, and music. Once I start, I don’t stop. The main material I work with is leather, whether vegan or genuine. And a lot of black mesh, metal rivets, and silver details. I also try to incorporate symbolic colours – green and purple, for example, as a nod to the Suffragettes. I work with some silhouettes that are slim and fitted to the body – a lot of Vivienne Westwood-inspired corsets – but I also embrace androgynous forms. If I design a jacket, I’m not going to put a limit on it. It’s for everyone.
KALTBLUT: In August, you exhibited your designs in Berlin as part of Temple of the Body, an interdisciplinary group exhibition organised by Berlin-based party collective Dissident and Taipei-based art collectives Homopleasure and Unknown White Powder. One piece stood out – the black wedding dress. What inspired this design?
Gwen: Yeah, that was the black wedding dress I made for myself. In Asian society, when you approach 30, people ask you if you’re going to get married or not, if you want a child, if you’re planning to be single forever, that kind of thing… it’s nuts. So I wanted to make this dress as a fuck you to the modern marriage system in Asia. I used lots of black mesh, and patched together second-hand leather jackets and pants.
KALTBLUT: The exhibition was all about cultural exchange between Berlin and Taipei. How has your brand been received in each of these cities?
Gwen: That’s an interesting question because in Taipei, only people in the subcultures appreciate it, and even then it’s hard to sell. People here aren’t big on things that are edgy or underground. They like casual things, or big brands – Louis Vuitton, Chanel. It’s a struggle being an independent designer. Riot Grrrl is somewhere between a ready-to-wear brand and a couture brand. People think, ‘If I’m going to spend €200 to buy your stuff, why don’t I just spend a bit more and buy Chanel?’ In Berlin, people order my clothes without me having to promote it that much. The attitude is just different, more daring and more accepting.
KALTBLUT: Who are your design inspirations?
Gwen: Patti Smith, Joan Jett, Rihanna, Bonnie from Bonnie and Clyde… I like powerful figures. And Jing Lekker of course – she’s my original Riot Grrrl muse. I met her partying in Taipei, and she just had this special energy, this special power. She’s not afraid to speak up for what she believes in. I designed a red dress especially for one of her music videos. Now I make it to order.
KALTBLUT: How do you want people to feel in your clothing?
Gwen: Fearless, confident, powerful.
KALTBLUT: Where do you want to take Riot Grrrl in future?
Gwen: Well, London is the first place I studied, Berlin is the home of my brand in Europe, and next year I’ll be living in Paris. So London, Berlin, Paris – I want to share my works in these three cities. I hope my world gets bigger and bigger.
Cover photo by @chihhanyang
Follow @riotgrrrlofficial and @gwenmilai to keep up with Riot Grrrl.
