For one of the best shows at Berlin Fashion Week SS26, Ukrainian brand VIKTORANISIMOV debuted its compelling collection against the striking backdrop of The Feuerle Collection, a private museum housed in a decommissioned telecommunications bunker. Created by designer Viktor Anisimov, the collection provides a contemporary lens on the lasting impacts of conflict, drawing inspiration from his recent work on a capsule wardrobe for President Volodymyr Zelenskyy.
The collection unfolds with masterfully crafted looks, each informed by an architectural precision that marries form and function. Central to the narrative is a poignant figure clad in black, set amidst the haunting remnants of a missile-ravaged structure. This choice of colour transcends mere aesthetics, channelling the essence of reality while simultaneously cultivating a glimmer of hope for renewal and resilience.
Layering and transformation lie at the heart of this collection. The standout pieces—a range of wrap shirts, long tunics with open hems, adaptable crop tops, and shorts that seamlessly morph into skirts—speak to a modern sensibility. Equally, the utility-driven cargo trousers with ample pockets and sleek leggings inject an effortless rhythm into the silhouettes, blurring the lines between practicality and style.
Utilising materials like linen and linen-viscose blends that echo the textures of medical gauze, VIKTORANISIMOV also nods to themes of recovery, both physical and emotional. The interplay of these elements pays homage to endurance while encapsulating a story that resonates deeply within our current zeitgeist.
Accompanied by a specially composed score from Ukrainian composer Vitalii Telesin, the show mirrored the complexities of Berlin’s spirit, characterised by an openness that aligns powerfully with Anisimov’s design language.
Hailing from the north of Ukraine, Anisimov brings a unique perspective shaped by his experiences in Donetsk and Kyiv. His military background subtly infuses his collections with utilitarian nuances and a distinctive approach to versatility. As he embraces more sustainable practices, Anisimov continues to evolve, crafting garments that not only function but also inspire.
VIKTORANISIMOV is not just a brand; it is a narrative woven with hope and resilience, making each piece a bold statement of artistry and modern consciousness. With this new collection, Anisimov reaffirms his voice in the industry, inviting us all to explore the transformative potential of fashion.
For more, visit VIKTORANISIMOV or follow them on Instagram @anisimov_menswear.
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Words Marcel Schlutt and Nico Sutor
