MARKE has once again captured our hearts with the latest collection, The Summer I Never Had, a poignant exploration of queer longing and lost seasons. As ardent fans of the brand since day one, it’s safe to say that if we were to compile a top 5 of our favourite collections from Berlin Fashion Week SS26, MARKE would undoubtedly secure a spot.
Photographer Shin Jeong Hoon graciously delved backstage for us, capturing the essence of this deeply intimate presentation. This collection is not just a showcase of fashion; it’s a quiet revolution that honours the lost narratives of queer youth, stories relegated to the shadows of time, obscured by shame and silence. MARKE weaves together elements of memory and fantasy to conjure a summer that should have been but never was.
All photos by SHIN JEONG HOON
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Words by Marcel Schlutt and Nico Sutor
Drawing inspiration from literary luminaries like E.M. Forster’s Maurice, Tomasz Jedrowski’s Swimming in the Dark, and Douglas Stuart’s Young Mungo, the collection paints a vivid tableau of forbidden love, transcending time and class barriers, from the meticulously manicured lawns of Edwardian England to the oppressive atmosphere of 1980s communist Poland, and the rugged concrete of 1990s Glasgow. In each setting, queer intimacy flickers prominently, hidden in the crevices of tenderness, danger, and the yearning to remain unseen.
A Coming-of-Age in Three Movements
The Summer I Never Had unfolds across three emotionally charged phases of queer coming-of-age: the mask of concealment, the acceptance of self, and the haunting beauty of memory. Rather than following a standard narrative arc, this collection vibrates with resonances, and echoes of love, survival, and growth in environments that can often feel hostile.
- The Mask – Tailoring takes the spotlight here. Sharp lines and meticulous cuts mirror societal expectations, enveloping the wearer in a protective armour of blazers crafted from a luxurious cotton/silk blend and crisp wool/silk suiting. Yet beneath this façade lies a soft tenderness yearning to be found.
- The Light – This movement marks a jubilant emergence from the shadows. Structure loosens, yielding to volume and a newfound ease. Inspired by the elegant silhouettes of the Renaissance and the relaxed aesthetic of streetwear’s heyday, cotton/viscose denim in shades of white, pigeon blue, and soft rosé dances with delicate milles-fleurs prints and semi-transparent checks. Here, the body is celebrated in all its glory.
- The Memory – An ethereal dream of what could have been. In hues of greys and charcoals, soft jersey and faded checks evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of fleeting moments just out of reach, appearing like wisps of smoke—tangible, yet elusive.
A Journey Through Class and Time
Clothing becomes a profound dialogue between the weight of tradition and the buoyancy of rebellion. Tailored silhouettes echo social order, while elements of tracksuits, workwear, and streetwear communicate defiance. This dance between the rigid and the free perfectly mirrors the push-pull of identities shaped in the crucible of society’s pressures.
Colour & Material Story
A restrained palette, black, white, pigeon blue, charcoal, grey, and soft rosé, frames the emotional landscape of the collection, grounded by textiles that oscillate between protection and vulnerability. The mix of cotton/silk and wool/silk tailoring flows seamlessly into the softness of washed denim and jersey. Prints echo the botanical melancholy of Redouté, interweaving queer longing with the quiet persistence of the natural world.
Through The Summer I Never Had, MARKE offers more than simply a collection; they present a powerful reclamation, an invitation to remember, or perhaps to imagine, the summers denied to queer youth. It is, undeniably, a love letter inscribed in fabric, motion, and sound. Presented as part of BERLIN CONTEMPORARY during BERLIN FASHION WEEK, this show is proudly supported by the Berlin Senate Department for Economic Affairs, Energy, and Public Enterprises in collaboration with the Fashion Council Germany and produced by NEWEST. Special thanks to LA BIOSTHETIQUE, FÜRST, and DR. MARTENS for their invaluable support.
