#MilanFashionWeek – Dark everywhere: full of possibilities instead of nullifying, like a movie coming to life. We are in the Borbonese Studios: a director’s chair; clapperboard and megaphone, encrusted with crystals; in the background, drawn by brightly coloured neons, a chapel of love; all around, mirror cactuses, and sand.
Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena take Borbonese, once again, to another place, both recognizable and of pure fantasy: an American desert in which the apparent darkness maximizes the metallic glow of the colours, and the natural and the artificial mix in a sparkling and dazzling vision. In this scene, their idea of sharp glamour is amplified, with a rigorous yet sensual demeanour. The distinctive sign of the season is the refractions of Swarovski crystals, spread on entire surfaces or composed in lines and profiles.
The women meandering in the Borbonese Studios, perched on high-heeled clogs, wear exclusively OP suede garments in the dense colours of a Cadillac: honey, natural, green cactus, emerald, navy blue, pink, red. The handkerchief tied on the head is also made of suede, lined with silk, to protect them from the sun during the desert road trip; the choker decorated with small flowers is suede, too. The entire collection is made with archive materials, following an inherently responsible approach. The silhouette is vertical and voluptuous, moved by the opening of folds and the dancing of leather tubular fringes. Archetypal items such as the blouson, the cargo or pleated skirt, the slip dress edged with crystals, the bra top, but also the shorts, the shirt and the jeans are interpreted through the lens of material sensuality. In addition to suede, silk peeks out, in a domino print also culled from the archive.
The same balance of rigor and sparkle continues in the bags. The absolute protagonist is 110, the style with a rounded shape, presented in a special version, in the seasonal colours and embellished with Swarovski crystals®. Two variants are featured: a crystal texture applied all over the OP suede, to make it glassy like sand; with crystal transfer applications of large stones, all over or only along the profiles. The contrast between glamour and pure design is exquisitely Borbonese. Clean lines and soft volumes like a Claes Oldenburg sculpture characterize Domino, the hobo style with brass dices on the knotted shoulder strap. The profile of the Oyster is enveloping like a shell, with a short handle, while the leather tubular gives silhouette and structure to Horseback, in square and rigorous shapes.
In the multiplication of colours, lines and refractions, the Borbonese identity gains a prismatic and seductive richness.