Allow yourself to challenge the concept of perfection. Find beauty in the pain. Presented at an abandoned warehouse, Brian De Carvalho’s new AW24 collection acts as a reflection of its surroundings. What once was a strong building has gradually deteriorated into a site of dilapidation and disuse; similarly, each piece in the collection is primed to perfection before being subject to various methods of destruction. Text by Sophie Winfield.
www.instagram.com/briandecarvalho
When Brian De Carvalho found himself trapped because of the Covid-19 lockdowns, he turned to clothes. Creating corsets destined to be worn in dingy nightclubs provided him with a sense of release and, perhaps more importantly, something to look forward to. Simultaneously inspired by the contemporary queer experience and the styles of the 18th century, he explores themes of restriction, beauty and the macabre.
With a predisposition for the gothic, deconstruction abounds throughout the collection; unfinished hems and raw edges speak to the imperfections of the human experience, a constant reminder that beauty cannot exist without a lack thereof. Like the women once believed to be witches, skirts and dresses have been burnt – a representation of the societal restrictions we long to eschew in favour of freedom.
It’s this ability to create romantic juxtapositions that sit at the centre of the collection. Pain doesn’t detract from beauty; it makes it human. Corsetry isn’t romantic despite the way it restricts the body, but because of it. Stiff silhouettes are detailed with delicate feathers, simultaneously representing physical limitations and the desired freedom of the bird.
Creative Director: Brian De Carvalho @Briandecavalho
Creative Production: PBM.360 @pbm.360
Stylist: Emily Evans @mrsemilyevans
Key MUA: Aoife Cullen @Aoifeartist
Key Hair: Takumi Horiwaki @taku_hair
Key Nails: Phi Dang @nailsby__phil
Set Designer: Mia Sylvia @miasylviaa
Movement Direction: Harper Celeste @harperpfion
Casting: @celestecasting
Photographer: Adam Hutchinson @adamgotacamera
Videographer: Jamal Thomas @whyjamal
Lookbook Photographer: Eazy Viisuals @Eazyvisuals
Backstage Videography: Lauren Austin
Backstage Photographer: Rui Santos @rui.santoss
Text by Sophie Winfield. @sophiewinfieldd
MUA Assistants:
Chloé Pack
@chlopack
James goff
@makeupwithjames
Echo Seireeni
@echoseireeni
Steph Ofori
@sandras.daughter
Chesca Gilbey @chescagilbey
Belicia Owusu Ansan @beliciaowusuansan
Hair assistants:
Anna Cichoń @nerdsfx
Roxani Blaz @roxany_blaz
Nancy khan
@nancykhanmakeup
Ronke Olaibi @ronke.Olaibi
Nao Sato @naosato
Myuji Sato @myujisato
Riina @riina0211
Gaia Bezbradica @gaia_maua
Miki Ide @idemikii
Brian’s Assistants:
Mercury Ladeira
@dopeythegemini
Zoe Wei Yi Liwicki
@zoeliwickiart
Grace Miller
@grac13_m1ll3r
Esme Ashby
@Eddie.sews
Sofia Escobar Saldarriaga,
@Sofiaes_designs
Niamh Watson
@n.watson.design
Nails assistants:
Huyen My @my.nhoo_
Hoang Dung @mejcnguyen
Runners:
Zacchia Moore @_moorephotos
Mo Boyns @moboyns
Ira Alecia Gardne @iraalecia
Sofia Rana @singleshotofcoffee
Kelly-Anne Slue beauteserieuse
nefertiti nettey @tariseraph
Summer Odev @summerodev
Cecilia King @ceciliakingg
Sponsors: Forever Good @forevergoodldn Lambrini @lambriniuk Jecca Blac @jeccablac
