An interview taken from our new issue THE CLASS OF 2025! In the world of fashion, where lines often blur between tradition and innovation, Absent Findings emerges as a beacon of creativity and individuality. With their debut collection, “My Personal References,” the brand invites us into a reflective journey that intertwines art, architecture, and heartfelt heritage. Inspired by influential voices like Vasudeo S. Gaitonde and Satyajit Ray, this collection showcases a rich colour palette paired with futuristic elements drawn from Dubai’s iconic Museum of the Future.
Each piece tells a story—crafted with the cherished saris of mothers and grandmothers, the designs balance structure and fluidity, echoing the duality of past and present. At the heart of Absent Findings is a philosophy that embraces both minimalism and maximalism, celebrating the beauty of unexpected silhouettes and intricate details. This dynamic approach encourages wearers to find their uniqueness in every stitch, making a statement through subtlety.
As we delve into this exclusive interview with the visionary behind Absent Findings, we uncover not just the inspiration behind “My Personal References,” but also the values that define a brand committed to authenticity and expression. Join us as we explore the creative process, the challenges faced, and the profound connections that manifest in each garment—a collection that is not just fashion, but a canvas for self-discovery.
What inspired the theme behind your latest collection, “My Personal References,” and how does it tie into the essence of Absent Findings?
“My Personal References” is truly a reflection of my journey—both in life and as a designer. It’s about reconciling different facets of my identity, from my cultural heritage to my fascination with modernity and dreams. The collection ties into the essence of Absent Findings because it embodies that duality—honouring tradition while exploring the future. It’s about creating pieces that feel like an extension of my personal experiences, like drawing from the saris of my mother and grandmother, but at the same time reimagining them in a way that speaks to innovation and change. This balance between old and new, the tension between presence and absence, is where Absent Findings truly come to life.
How do you think this collection reflects the brand’s philosophy of merging minimalist elegance with bold innovation?
This collection strikes a balance between refinement and forward-thinking design. The clean lines, tailored silhouettes, and use of a monochromatic palette reflect minimalist elegance. Yet, there’s innovation in how those elements come together. For example, the draping mimics the flow of a sari but is reimagined in a way that feels fresh and modern. It’s not about overwhelming the design with extra elements; instead, it’s about making bold choices within the simplicity. The innovation is subtle, more in the construction and the story, letting the pieces speak through the details rather than embellishments.
The collection features unexpected silhouettes and deconstructed elements. What motivated these design choices, and how do they enhance the narrative you want to convey?
The deconstructed elements and unexpected silhouettes reflect a deeper narrative of transformation and evolution. Growing up between cultures and carrying the weight of different identities, I often feel like I’m in a constant state of becoming. These design choices reflect that—deconstructing the familiar and rebuilding it into something entirely new. The pleating in some of the garments, for example, mirrors the draping of a traditional sari but is reimagined to flow with a modern silhouette. It’s a nod to heritage, but it’s also about breaking boundaries and reinventing what’s expected. I want these choices to invite wearers to embrace their evolution.
Can you elaborate on the role of art and culture in shaping your designs for this collection?
Art and culture are at the heart of this collection. I drew inspiration from several key figures whose work resonated with my journey and the essence of Absent Findings. Vasudeo S. Gaitonde’s approach to abstraction greatly influenced my use of colour. His muted, contemplative palette, combined with the dusty shades of primary colours that I grew up with in Dubai, shaped the emotional tone of the collection. Each shade speaks of calm, introspection, and a quiet confidence that mirrors the deeper layers of the garments.
Satyajit Ray’s Pather Panchali touched me on a deeply personal level. The humanism and raw emotion in the film reminded me of my Bengali heritage and how profoundly culture shapes our perspective. It’s not just about making clothes but creating garments that carry stories, memories, and the emotional weight of lived experience.
Max Ernst’s surrealism also influenced my design process. Ernst once said that an artist, when in turmoil and inner struggle, is filling up their vessel. This time of absence—of internal conflict—is essential because once the vessel is full, it explodes onto canvas. That’s the moment of finding or discovery, the breakthrough that leads to creating something truly consequential. This process of finding after an absence, of creating the following struggle, feels closely tied to how I approached this collection. I wanted to embrace this sentiment.
Lastly, the Museum of the Future in Dubai shaped my vision of modernity for this collection. The museum’s fluid, futuristic architecture inspired me to think about how clothing can bridge the gap between tradition and innovation. The collection reflects this merging of art and culture—honouring the past while simultaneously looking forward, creating something timeless yet progressive.
Among the pieces in “My Personal References,” is there one that holds particular significance for you? What story does it tell?
One look that holds particular significance for me is the combination of the black cummerbund trousers, inspired by the drape of a sari, and the green blouse made from my grandmother’s sari. This look encapsulates what Absent Findings is truly about—authentic, meaningful pieces that effortlessly carry deep personal stories. It’s a fusion of my heritage with contemporary design, striking a balance between tradition and modernity.
Aesthetically, this outfit represents quiet confidence. I imagine someone walking into a room wearing it with a calm, assured demeanour, turning heads without needing to peacock. That’s exactly what I want Absent Findings’ wearers to experience—a sense of understated power and elegance.
How do you see the concept of duality—between absence and presence, minimalism and maximalism—play out across the garments in this collection?
Duality is a constant theme in my work, and this collection dives into that. I think a lot about absence and presence—not just in design but in life. In the collection, you’ll see minimalism in the clean lines, muted colour palettes, and tailored silhouettes, but maximalism creeps in through the detailing—the bold draping, unexpected cuts, and layered meanings behind each piece. It’s about finding a balance between restraint and expression. I see this as a metaphor for how we all navigate life, constantly shifting between wanting to be seen and choosing to stay absent.
Individuality is a core value at Absent Findings. How does “My Personal References” encourage wearers to express their uniqueness?
This collection was designed to invite individuality. Each garment is intentional, but there’s enough space for the wearer to bring their personality into it. The pieces are versatile, allowing for different ways to wear and interpret them. The deconstructed elements invite creativity—whether it’s how you style the garment or how you move in it, there’s room for personal expression. It’s about giving people the framework but letting them build their own story within it. I want people to feel like they can make each piece their own, connecting with the narrative but bringing their own experiences to it.
In designing this collection, how important is the use of monochromatic palettes, and what feelings do you aim to evoke through colour?
The monochromatic palette is essential because it evokes a sense of calm and contemplation, much like Gaitonde’s work, where subtle shifts in tone create emotional resonance. I wanted the colours in the collection to feel meditative, allowing the textures, shapes, and details to take centre stage without being overpowered by bold hues. However, my interpretation of monochromatic differs from the more traditional palette of greys and blacks. Given my personal history and upbringing, I believe in wearing the colours you feel. The palette in this collection draws from the dusty, muted tones of primary colours I grew up surrounded by in Dubai. It reflects a more personal narrative—one that balances subtlety with emotional depth.
Every detail in your garments is intentional. Can you describe how you achieve this while allowing for personal expression?
I focus on crafting garments that are precise yet flexible. Every detail is considered, but it’s not rigid. I want my pieces to feel effortless yet thoughtful. For example, the way fabric is layered or the pleating that mimics the drape of a sari—it’s all intentional but allows for the garment to move and adapt to the person wearing it. It’s a balance between structure and fluidity, where the details guide the overall form, but the wearer brings the final layer of expression to it.
How does meticulous tailoring contribute to the timeless and chic aesthetic Absent Findings is known for?
For me, tailoring is where craftsmanship meets storytelling. It’s about making sure each piece doesn’t just fit well but feels timeless. I’m a big believer that a garment’s longevity comes from how it’s built—how it feels on your body and how it moves with you. In Absent Findings, tailoring is key because it reflects our focus on quality and refinement. The clean lines and sharp cuts give the collection that effortless, chic look, but it’s the tailoring that makes these pieces more than just stylish—they’re made to last.
Every fit and silhouette has been carefully thought through. Almost every piece went through three rounds of prototyping, with little tweaks every time to get the shape just right. That’s all down to tailoring—it’s what makes these pieces feel so polished and effortless when you wear them. It’s about making sure the clothes don’t just look good but also feel good, and that they move with you.
Can you share your thoughts on how maximalism finds its way into your largely minimalist framework in this collection?
Maximalism in this collection is about layering ideas rather than adding embellishment. While the overall aesthetic is minimalist, there’s maximalism in the details—like the exaggerated neck and shoulders of a hoodie or how a simple silhouette holds hidden layers of meaning. It’s also about emotional maximalism. Each piece may seem simple at first, but the thought, personal history, and emotional weight behind it are anything but minimal. It’s about finding richness in the subtle and allowing the complexity to reveal itself slowly.
What message do you hope wearers take away from “My Personal References,” particularly regarding their personal style and self-discovery?
I hope the collection inspires wearers to explore their narratives. It’s deeply personal for me, but I want others to find their meaning in it. Fashion, for me, is a tool for self-discovery—it’s how you express who you are and who you’re becoming. Through “My Personal References,” I want people to feel empowered to embrace both their past and their future. It’s not about conforming to trends or what society expects; it’s about finding what resonates with you on a deeper level and expressing that through the way you dress.
More importantly, it’s about normalizing the idea of being absent from what society has planned for you, as long as you’re using that absence to find what your soul truly needs. I want this collection to give people, especially kids like me, the strength to believe in themselves, to take time to explore their path, and to trust that absence is part of the journey to finding your true self.
Looking back, what challenges did you face during the creation of this collection, and how did those challenges shape the final pieces?
One of the biggest challenges was balancing the personal nature of the collection with its broader appeal. Using fabrics from my mother’s and grandmother’s saris brought a lot of emotion, and translating that into something others could connect with wasn’t easy. But it made the collection stronger, pushing me to tell a story that feels both personal and universal. It’s been a real learning process, especially compared to my time at Polimoda, where the focus was more on pushing silhouettes and art. This time, I had to consider the occasion of use and commerciality alongside the story I wanted to tell.
Heritage plays an important role in fashion. How do you integrate your heritage into your designs and storytelling?
My heritage is woven into the fabric—literally and metaphorically—of this collection. From using saris passed down in my family to drawing on influences like Satyajit Ray’s Pather Panchali, my cultural background shapes everything I do. It’s not just about aesthetics; it’s about carrying forward the values, emotions, and stories of those who came before me. Lately, I’ve been making a conscious choice to find beauty in my own culture, instead of looking only to Western artists and media like I used to. I’ve realized that my strength comes from my worldview, and so much of that is because of my heritage. I integrate this not just as a nod to the past but as a living, evolving part of who I am and what I create. It’s a way of honouring where I come from while pushing those traditions into new, modern spaces.
As we look to the future of fashion in 2025, what changes do you foresee? How do you think Absent Findings will adapt to these emerging trends and consumer desires?
In 2025, I foresee fashion moving toward a deeper connection with authenticity and representation. There’s a growing awareness of the need for more diverse voices, especially in an industry that’s been predominantly shaped by Western ideals. As a South Asian designer, I feel there’s a rich cultural heritage that hasn’t been fully explored or represented in a truly researched and intentional way, despite it resonating with such a large global audience. I want to bring my culture into the conversation, not as a trend, but as an authentic narrative that merges with my own unique experiences.
Absent Findings will adapt by continuing to be that voice, blending my South Asian roots with my journey, offering a perspective that is both fresh and genuine. I believe this is essential in a space that often sidelines voices like mine. It’s not just about showcasing culture, but doing so in a way that honours it—through careful research, storytelling, and deep personal connection. There’s so much value in pushing for systemic change, both within the industry and beyond.
Interview by Marcel Schlutt
Photography & Art Direction: Laura Puscasu / @visualdelirium
Styling: Nisha Kapitzki / @nishakapitzki
Hair & Makeup: Subrata Ravinder Singh / @subi911, Akanksha Rajesh / @akansharajesh6,
& Disha Joseph / @dishajoseph
Set Design: Nisha Kapitzki / @nishakapitzki & Shivin Singh / @shi.vin
Set Assistant: Shreya Kapitzki / @shreyakapitzki
Model: Laith Orij / @laith.orij & Kevin Fernando / @bykevinfern
Production: Ravinder Singh / @ravi.s.photography & Subrata Ravinder Singh / @subi911
Pattern & Product Development: Dario Bonucci / @stud_48r
Creative Direction: Shivin Singh / @shi.vin
@absentfindings
