This season, Helen Anthony S/S23 is a celebration of empowerment, freedom and craftsmanship. Designed by the rule-breaking creative director Naeem Anthony, the collection, presented at London Fashion Week, is a melting pot of Eastern and Western culture encompassing his ‘all or nothing’ mindset with the contrasts between lengths, textures, and colours.
Hand embroidered pieces made from luxury British fabrics like wool, cashmere, velvet and mesh reflect the classic British tailoring that has become an important part of the brand’s DNA. In contrast, satin, sustainable and vegan leather and sheer fabrics add a daring element to the collection. The mixture of fabrics represents the freedom to wear whatever makes us feel most empowered and confident, with sheer embroidered pieces highlighting that we should feel free to feel comfortable in our own skin.
The collection also boasts impeccably well-structured and oversized floor-length overcoats and broad-shouldered blazers, reflecting yet again the re-occurring theme of empowerment, coinciding with flowing, low-cut maxi dresses with elegant tails alongside striking suits and powerful tuxedos. Playing with height and length, adding both high and low-waisted trousers and long and short skirts to add an element of playfulness to razor-sharp British tailoring. A collection that dares to be different, pushing boundaries and allowing the wearer to own any room, all whilst feeling strong and seen.
Selected pieces are decorated with incredible hand embroidery using the Indian Zardozi technique. Wool, cashmere, and mesh pieces are hand embroidered with pearls or sequins to create images of historical London landmarks and the Helen Anthony monogram design.
Collaborating with Riddhima Kapoor Sahni, a handmade jewellery brand specializing in Polki jewellery with a technique called Jadau, it is a traditional Indian jewellery-making process that dates back hundreds of years. Their breath-taking pieces are made from gold, uncut diamonds and enamel and were once worn by Indian Kings and Queens.
The show itself opted to banish traditional runway etiquette as models mixed with the audience allowing them to view the pieces up close and become part of the show themselves. Helen Anthony SS23 is a current fundamental reflection of strength, empowerment, diversity and freedom, fueled by a combination of cultures.
Backstage Photography by Kushagra Anand
Words by Lizzy Swinerd @lizzys1302
linktr.ee/lizzyswinerd
and Lewis Robert Cameron
Fashion director @anthonynaeemofficial
@helenanthonyofficial
