London Fashion Week has been and gone for another delightful season, leaving a strong taste of euphoric satisfaction in both our mouths and minds alike as designers gave us the stuff of dreams as well as nightmares, in collections displaying dreamesque ethereality and the unearthly, futuristic-punk elegance of the new age goths of tomorrow. 


To celebrate, here are KALTBLUT’s top five FW23 shows that transcended reality and kept us in a tranquil state of exhilaration/terror from start to finish. 


First up, De Fichier returning with their sophomore collection entitled Episode 02 as part of Fashion Scout’s FW23 schedule. Inspired by the painterly world of Edward Hopper, this follow-up collection captures the duality of feeling loneliness and belonging. The collision of silhouettes reminds us of the beauty found in disharmony.


A fan favourite on the London fashion week schedule, Edward Crutchley once again plays on themes of historical opulence with a racy horn-adorned cod-piece thong and bralette thrown in amongst the otherwise romantic and regal display in a tonal palette consisting predominately of grey, white and black. Clashing mixed fabric prints transported us into the kaleidoscopic mind of the Crutchley dynasty.


Hauntingly provocative and effortlessly demure, “Not A Man’s Territory” questions why men have way too much control over women’s bodies as Turkish-born Dilara Findikoglu took over an East London 19th-century chapel to explore sensuality and strength for FW23. Lingerie covered in crystals, a gothic black feather dress and an almost medieval warrioresque statement, butter-knife gown in an accentuated hourglass silhouette were key highlights as Dilara tackles the ideas behind how much skin is too much skin and what women should and should not wear under the control of men.

  4. DREAMING ELI by Elisa

A relatively new brand, DREAMING ELI by Elisa is the brainchild of London-based Italian designer, Elisa Trombatore. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, DREAMING ELI FW23 demonstrates power, danger and the beauty of contradiction inherent in femininity. Empowering women through rebellious design stemming from Elisa’s Sicilian heritage and the passion found in womanhood to free the idea of femininity and its constraints.


Last but by no means least, another Fashion Scout show set Instagram ablaze with Buerlangma’s London fashion week debut. Entitled Do It Like A Villain, the collection explores fantasy villainous themes, bursting with youth culture and an emphasis on the current cultural shift in China where young people are embracing their individuality and their artistic identity creating the ultimate masquerade display of theatrical eccentricity at its very best. 

Until next time. See you in our dreams/nightmares LFW. 

Words by Lewis Robert Cameron.