#Lookbook – Introducing to you the Fall/Winter 22/23 collection of Mans – “La Décadence”, presented on the 26th of January in Madrid. A show fully charged with after dark allure. Whether cropped or oversized Mans shows season after season the expertise in providing eveningwear that has boundless possibilities through a gender-bending style.
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With a far bolder paradox than black and white, the commitment to the surreal enjoyment of clothes turned up to max volume. Extravagance, luxury, and sexual licentiousness. “La décadence” is a collection that is quite trapped in nostalgia, but also curious about what’s to come. The madness of glamour, in front of an uncertain future justifying its raison d’être in challenging times.
It’s a contrast between minimalism and maximalism where the models are portrayed as an artwork of Tamara de Lempicka who uses bright, luminous colours to scent out the elegance in the models who walk into a clean space decorated in a pearl-beige carpet with the Madrid night skyline in the horizon. A show fully charged with after- dark allure.
Vibrant colors, prints, and silken, sequined and even delicately feathered ensembles look like they may have fallen right out of a movie. Gentleman dandy grays and browns mixed with burgundy, greens and pinks reminiscent of a decadent cabaret. Pleated collars topped with ruffles, puffed sleeves with bat effect and teardrop details that reveal the skin of the chest. It’s glamorous, seductive and slightly dangerous.
Mans continues with the objective of decontextualizing fabrics and leading them to tailoring. The cuffs of the classic shirt are lengthened with a twin effect without being so, and the collar is enlarged to make way for a tie. The blazers enhance the waist, some with peak lapels and others with big cuffs were a “Mans classic” eight bottoms rest as the gangsters of the ’20s. The too slim military blazers with mandarin collar remember the “Carlist” era and leave nothing to the imagination.
The trousers merge a modern and classic silhouette with a straight cut falling from the waist with a big pleat in the front. Short and knee-long fake fur coats with bourgeois accents on one side and a twist on the other. This striking mix is chic yet cozy, creating feelings of protection and comfort.
There’s a hint of romanticism and a heavy dose of Velvet Goldmine. Post-punk attitude, crude humor and a belief in the superiority of creativity. It’s a decadent cabaret directed by Jaime Álvarez.
