One cannot deny Berlin Fashion Week would risk dullness without the outstanding flair of Marina Hoermanseder, whose collection we adore not just for its design but also for the spirit it breathes into the event. The KALTBLUT Magazine team remains captivated by the effortless blend of audacity, nostalgia, and reinvention that defines the pieces—a reawakening of fashion’s potential to astonish.
Marina Hoermanseder’s AW 24/25 collection heralds a spectacular return, catapulting the runway into an immersive fashion spectacle. Following a four-year hiatus, the designer unveils a new collection from her couture label that reflects on years marred by constraints and societal shifts, all teetering on the brink of a monochromatic abyss. Hoermanseder has nestled upon the notion that rediscovering our childlike roots could lead us to genuine emotion and joy—and from this epiphany, an emotional circus is born, touching every feeling from euphoria to melancholy.
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Far more than mere clothing and trends, Marina Hoermanseder’s fashion clings to an individual vision: designs that entertain, evoke emotion, and craft moments of wonder. Embodying the motto “More is More,” the collection parades exceptional shapes, vibrant colours, and a bold interplay of materials and textures—it’s a refreshing perspective that signals the creative spirit’s renaissance of the brand.
This collection invites you to witness a virtuoso circus flair and delve into a treasure trove of curiosities. A leap into the kaleidoscope of life, the thrill of winning a “Care Bear,” and a peek into a hall of mirrors where objects start to lose their original shape. It’s here that oversized hearts and inflated dresses step into the spotlight, blurring the lines between reality and fantasy. What’s real and what isn’t?
A surreal, heart-shaped vase emerges as a centrepiece in Marina Hoermanseder’s collection. The precisely handcrafted, colossal dress impresses with its extraordinary shape and gleaming surface. An additional standout piece is the leather “Venus Vase,” drawing inspiration from the Austrian archaeological marvel—the iconic Venus of Willendorf—a figurine that symbolizes size inclusion and prompts a reevaluation of pervasive beauty standards.
For the first time, Marina Hoermanseder ventures into sculptural and handcrafted menswear. She challenges the stereotypical societal images with oversized hearts and pink bows, artfully merging traditionally feminine and masculine elements, thus creating a space beyond gender-specific norms. Plush, tulle, and glitter seamlessly merge with “Care Bears” (collaboration partners), faux fur, velvet, and printed fabrics, crafting a narrative that transcends fashion conventions. In captivating shapes and with meticulous attention to detail, the collection showcases more buckles and more leather than ever before, faithfully adhering to the signature of her label.
Craftsmanship is deeply embedded in the brand’s DNA. Buckles are hand-punched in Berlin, edged with the utmost care. The label specializes in Cuir bouilli, a centuries-old technique that softens two-dimensional leather with water before reshaping it into dynamic three-dimensional forms. This method, deeply rooted in orthopaedics, has been transformed by Marina Hoermanseder into a high-fashion phenomenon. In collaboration with local orthopaedic specialists and industry experts, the brand remains committed to keeping the craft alive, all the while being receptive to new technologies to refine its processes.
In Marina Hoermanseder’s AW24/25 collection, diverse materials intersect, spinning a tale of boundless creativity and self-expression—a fashion that delights and defies boundaries.
