ModaLisboa And Now What? 5 one to watch designers from Sangue Novo
The Sangue Novo contest was always about questions. How does the new generation of Designers interpret the world? What do we have to teach them? What are they teaching us? Is this the design of tomorrow? Is this the solution? here are our 5 one to watch designers from Sangue Novo: Filipe Cerejo, Ivan Hunga Garcia, João Sousa, Carolina Costa and Reimão.
For the development of their collections, the designers had the support of three big players in the textile industry – Tintex Textiles, Calvelex/Fabrics4Fashion and Riopele, in a partnership with ModaLisboa – and they have been given mentoring from the panel of judges, since July 30.
Filipe Cerejo began his fashion journey in his hometown, Porto, but the passion for pursuing more knowledge pushed him to move to London, where he gained a BA (Hons) in Fashion Design at Middlesex University in 2021, and he is currently based.
In 2019, his university awarded him with the Ede and Ravencroft Exemplary Work Award, and became a finalist in Sangue Novo, ModaLisboa’s Young Designers Competition. Amongst these achievements, his graduating collection was also showcased in the British Fashion Council and ShowStudio. Since then, he has kept developing new projects and finding ways to invigorate his vision and creative process. He has had his work featured on Fucking Young, French Fries Magazine, Rain magazine, Vogue Italy, among others.
His new craftsmanship has led him to drape and rework traditionally tailored patterns to create his unconventional sportswear approach.
SHIFTING BETWEEN REALITIES
“The ideas from my brain, on my wall, captured. My journey, my starting points, 2 sides of my bedroom surrounded by emotions. Emotions stimulated by obligation, a pandemic that invigorated my vision for menswear. This collection will take us in a journey where I push my boundaries to discover a new identity through draping and reworking statement pieces of menswear. Shifting myself, shifting between realities.”
Ivan Hunga Garcia
Ivan Hunga Garcia (Abrantes, 2000), graduated of ESAD Matosinhos in Fashion Design, in 2021, and did an internship with Ayres Bespoke Tailor. In parallel, he works as model.
The IHG fictional narrative develops as it contemplates the different realities and surroundings along time and space. This way, Fashion design and production do translate as a visual manifestation of dialogue self.
As an existential perspective, Neo Hominidae questions the positioning of the human species as a creature of an ecosystem inside planet earth. This condition is studied alongside the notions that the species’ evolution theory of Darwin explains the adaptation and progress of cause and effect of a certain being and its environment.
Morphologically speaking, the human canone and silhouette is deformed, challenging its gravitational camp and balance. In order to establish the forms, the clothing is designed to maintain and support the pose created in the process with the help of the pattern. This being drawn specifically for one posture. Also, its expansions with artificial structures contribute to the experience and body mindfulness of this collection. Therefore, the garments have the metaphysical experience of feeling the body with tensions, movements and logics that transcend the behavior of the human body routine and ergonomics of today.
João Sousa studied Visual Arts in high school, developing a special interest for drawing and illustration, combining his works with features of the works by different artists from around the world. Later, he enrolled in a degree in Fashion and Textile Design at the Escola Superior de Artes Aplicadas, at the Instituto Politécnico de Castelo Branco, where he learned the entire process of creating and developing a collection.
“Basquiat” is mainly inspired by one of the most recognized artists in America, Jean Michel Basquiat as a driver of trends, styles and attitudes towards society, mainly linked to the styling that the artist displayed every day, combined with references of the fashion of the time.
The collection mixes three different styles, streetwear, workwear and classic, allowing the developed of more varied and differentiated styling exercises. It is also a reflection of the painter´s work, whether because of its daring mixes, colors, asymmetries and deformations.
Carolina Costa (1997) was born in Lisbon. She studied Technical Fashion Design at Escola de Moda de Lisboa. After her first introduction to industry she moved to London, searching for a new challenge, and completed a BA in Fashion Design at the University for Creative Arts. There she was an intern for several designers, such as Brogger (2019) and Naya Rae (2021).
Returned to Lisbon, Carolina Costa continues to explore her creativity and her passion for the research process, combining feminine and masculine shapes under a contemporary vision.
Flourish Society find their purpose in creating a new society which breaks with the norms and conventions that have subdued us all through the years.
In a search for balance, the collection features shapes inspired by traditional Surinamese garments and Kotoberes that hide the feminine shapes. Much like the several cloth sheets that dress a woman’s body, the graffitis in our surroundings are just another layer, suggesting a close look at the subject of toxic masculinity, through the works of Henry Chalfant, street photographer, and a series of essays by Sophie Day.
The project “Bondage Luggage” by Maia Ruth Lee and the second-hand market in Ghana, also called Dead White Man’s Clothes, were equally essential in developing the details, choosing the materials and upcycling, thus originating the manifesto “You Throw Me Away”.
Andreia Reimão (Marco de Canaveses, 1999) joined Escola de Moda do Porto, in 2015. She participated in several competitions, such as the Portuguese Fashion News, where she won third place. In her senior year she interned with the designer Pedro Pedro.
In 2018, she began her studies at Modatex Porto and in 2020 she became a finalist of Sangue Novo, ModaLisboa’s young designers competition, with the collections “Beautiful Guy” and “Love me to eternity”.
Reimão is a creative project dedicated to menswear. It questions aspects of male behavior and explores various textile and cultural references. Reimão is a utopia.
There is a great ambiguity when talking about what masculinity is. What is it to be masculine? What is it to be virile? Do these terms still make sense today? There is probably no right answer, but there is a certain fragility in the definition of masculinity, a delicacy that is often ignored or even rejected.
“Boys of Hong Kong” by Alexandra Leese explores this question of identity, of what it is to be masculine or not. How these men break the stereotypes the western world has about them. They have a strong desire to find a unique identity, something all their own and don’t want to be defined by the expectations of others.