Philipp Dorner’s S/S25 collection transformatively explores the liminal space between youth and adulthood, capturing a state in flux. By fusing societal uniforms—emulating a Boy Scout’s preparatory adolescence with ministry dress codes embellished in papal grandeur—the collection blurs the lines between fantasy and reality, creating an emblematic in-between of boyhood.
Dorner translates the naive dissonance of pubescence through a unique clash of functionality and fluid movement. SS25 mirrors the push-and-pull of rigorous societal structures against youthful freedom, resulting in a collection that embodies the tension between idealism and realism, expressed via textiles and silhouettes.
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A Liminal Journey Through Youth and Adulthood
Playfulness stands at the heart of Phillip Dorner’s house style, driven by refined yet experimental embellishments. The collection features semi-transparent prints, hybrid velvet textures, breaks, and integrated briefs within trousers. Tailored, tent-like shapes echo the vitality of a child dressing as an adult. This study delves into the rigid frameworks shaping our early understanding of the world, influenced by hopeful, borderless transitions and life beyond conventional margins.
Merging evening wear with sportswear to form a daily uniform, Dorner introduces stark tailored shapes adorned with multi-pocket elements and Trompe l’oeil features that integrate three-dimensional, pragmatic details into deceptively flat surfaces. The collection draws from homoerotic undertones of male camaraderie in locker rooms and the awkwardness of sexual awakening, visually and conceptually exploring the discrepancy between softness and roughness. This nuanced view challenges traditional notions of masculinity, proposing a more intimate perspective on identity.
By subverting expectations and inventing new traditions while breaking away from the old, Phillip Dorner SS25 creates a reality where fluidity, pragmatism, comfort, and occasion coexist harmoniously, blurring the lines between youth and adulthood.
