RAY CHU Fall/Winter 2023

For Fall/Winter 23, RAY CHU presents a hybrid showcase at London Fashion Week featuring 20 sets focusing on the notion of enjoying the moment in an unapologetic, bold, and sensual presentation entitled ‘What’s the T.’


Following on from his previous collections, which focused on the sensuality of healing after heartbreak and reminiscing past love, this collection embodies the idea of getting back on your feet, enjoying the moment, and being bold and impulsive.

This season sees clean silhouettes in a sexy and mature monochromatic palette, interspersed with more vibrant pieces in turquoise, chestnut brown, mint green, and notes of pink. The entire collection is tied together by the brand’s identifiable motif of a lightning bolt, which materializes as metal hardware, stitching details, and throughout the accompanying accessories line.

This collection highlights the sexiness of being independent by altering classical professional pieces to become fun and sexy, such as tailored shirts covered in mint green sequins, and the brand’s signature micro mini skirt embellished with an oversized buckle.

RAY CHU collaborated with Tenga for London Fashion Week, a Japanese adult brand, to artistically explore the sense of pleasure. This collaboration is intended to emphasize the transcendent nature of pleasure and desire, which exists within us regardless of gender identity, race, and class. Aiming to empower people to find freedom through love and pleasure, culminating in the finale of the show, which showcases a dress with pockets that are shaped to perfectly fit the Tenga, illustrating the ease with which you can carry desire with you, anywhere, anytime.

In line with the thematic enterprise of this season’s collection, to harness desire as a form of liberation, RAY CHU will also be collaborating with That Gay Creation, a sex-positive queer gift shop, who are working with Ray Chu to launch their lifestyle range which will include candles and homeware items and will be released over the coming months. Transcending the runway and into the home, this collaboration is emphasizing the need for sex positivity in all realms of life and aims to challenge the boundaries of what is perceived as provocative or shocking, spreading joy in the form of sex-positive, fun and eco-friendly lifestyle pieces.

Established in 2016, RAY CHU is a Disruptive, Sexy, A-gender RTW brand.
A unique combination of refined quality, innovative craftsmanship, and the use of carefully placed cutouts emboldens the brand’s core, genderless identity.

Chu’s silhouettes and cuts are created to empower confidence. Sustainable by nature, RAY CHU works with deadstock fabric, organic cotton, and vegan leather made from recycled plastics and tea leaves (produced in collaboration with THE LAB 808) and only produces clothing to order.

Words by Lewis Robert Cameron

Nona Duch @nonaduch

Details – Nick Soland @nicksoland