RAY CHU Spring/Summer 2027: Fans Only Club

Ray Chu came to London Fashion Week with flowers, bananas, crystals, sex toys and some seriously good tailoring. So, you know, a quiet little summer collection. Called Fans Only Club, a not-so-subtle nod to a certain adult fan subscription service, SS27 starts with Taiwan’s Sambucus flower, or 冇骨消. It’s tiny, white and delicate, but grows in big cloud-like clusters. Cute alone, powerful en masse. There’s a metaphor in there about community, identity and strength, but don’t worry: the clothes do the talking.

And they’re saying: summer is going to be sexy.

Chu’s signature tailoring gets loosened up with sheer layers, clingy silhouettes and plenty of skin. The Sambucus flower pops up everywhere, chopped, abstracted and scattered across prints, textures and embellishments. Basically: florals for spring, but with considerably less garden party and considerably more afterparty.

Then there’s Taiwan Banana Club, Chu’s colourful, kitschy love letter to Taiwan. It’s fruity, nostalgic and knowingly camp, exactly the sort of print that makes you want to cancel whatever sensible beige thing you were planning to wear.

There’s sparkle, naturally. Swarovski ReCreated™ Crystals appear across selected looks like tiny water droplets catching the light. Pretty, but not princess-y. More sweaty dance floor at 2 am vibes after a length round of tennis doubles.

Japanese artist MOMOJIRI WORKS joins the party too, twisting Chu’s botanical inspiration into strange, delicate wearable sculptures. Jewellery? Art? Something fabulous dangling off your body? Who cares? It works.

And now, the important bit: the sex toys.

Hong Kong sexual-wellness brand Hello Nancy brings along Ace and Smash, two tennis-inspired pleasure devices from its Tennis Collection, which appear with selected looks. They’re officially described as “doubles partners”, which is an excellent piece of copy and possibly an even better dating strategy.

Suddenly Chu’s bananas have company.

It could all get very gimmicky, very quickly, but that’s part of the charm. Chu understands that sensuality doesn’t have to involve staring moodily into the middle distance. It can be silly. It can be colourful. It can apparently involve tennis equipment.

Even the fabrics are ready for a good time. There’s lightweight mint-fibre shirting and quick-drying Icy Grass jersey. Useful if your summer plans involve heat, dancing or questionable decisions, alongside a focus on natural-fibre-based and environmentally conscious materials.

Somewhere underneath the bananas, crystals and battery-operated pleasure objects is a genuinely lovely idea: like the Sambucus flower, we’re stronger when we find our people.

But Chu doesn’t beat you over the head with it. Fans Only Club is sexy, soft, weird, funny and beautifully put together.

Come for the tailoring. Stay for the bananas. Leave with a doubles partner.