Copenhagen Fashion Week! On Monday, 5th August 2024, Stem unveiled Edition 3, their latest exploration into handcraft and industrial weaving. This new collection underlines founder Sarah Brunnhuber’s dedication to sustainability, merging high-tech and low-tech approaches to zero-waste garment construction. The Pulling Collection features distinct asymmetrical fringes and intricate woven structures, which permeate Stem’s visual language.
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All photos by James Cochrane www.instagram.com/jamescochranephoto
A cornerstone of the collection is ‘Pulling,’ a unique weaving technique developed by Brunnhuber over two years. Like smocking, it gathers fabric to create volume and shape, integrating digitally woven material with hand-knotting. This technique underscores the enduring value of handcraft amid an industry leaning towards automation. Brunnhuber and design assistant Mathilde Mortens designed the garments, woven in Bergamo, Italy, and then brought them to life in Copenhagen through extensive pulling and knotting.
Sustainability shapes every decision Brunnhuber makes, from using certified natural fibres to adopting zero-waste techniques and sharing Stem’s production story through its pieces. The fabrics reveal information such as the number of pattern pieces and potential material waste, fostering a deeper understanding of garment construction.
“There is currently such a disconnect between what we see in a store or runway and all the steps that have happened before; a big part of my work with Stem is trying to visualize and share that process.” – Sarah Brunnhuber, Founder of Stem.
Recognized by Copenhagen Fashion Week as a ‘One To Watch’ designer, Brunnhuber presents Edition 3 in an immersive experience featuring live pulling and knotting. Models will move through an installation showcasing Edition 3’s draped fabrics and looks, styled with pieces from Editions 1 and 2. The presentation includes handwoven samples to highlight the material process and collaboration with design duo CHRISTIAN + JADE, as well as a partnership with Troentorp Clogs, known for their timeless craftsmanship.
