VAUTRAIT Spring/Summer 2023

#Lookbook – VAUTRAIT presented this season a collection crafted from quality materials and designed for everyday wear, as a cultural interpretation of the “contemporary” and the communicative.

The brand makes a case for more allure, something captivating and dramatic, but without disconnecting from the realities of daily life. Mature, refined with the presence of mind which portrays subtle composure, spiced with elegance.

Vautrait was founded in 2020 by Yonathan Carmel. Specializing in men’s tailoring and the construction of bespoke garments, Yonathan decided to start his own label, bringing together traditional crafts and techniques with a contemporary vision.

Inspired by “A Pigeon Sat on a Branch Reflecting on Existence” by Roy Andersson, a comedy as weirdly wonderful as its title, there’s no one moment of pure surreal flamboyance but it is a progression; the shifting and darkening of mood make narrative sense in context. The SS23 collection builds to an ineffable beauty on something surprisingly profound and interrupted. The styles are classic and so are the fabrics; crispy cotton shirts, wool jackets and soft leathers, however, turn them around and it’s a different story; exaggerated silhouettes, dramatic sleeves, asymmetric shapes, gathered fabrics by a string, or by deconstructed pleating. The broad array of neutral and muted tones emphasizes the refined lines of the silhouettes and blends with the facial features. There is something expected however unexpected un-fine-ness.

Just like Andersson, Yonathan maintains a rigorous deep focus all along his perspective lines, so that we can see the silhouettes on the distant skyline or from a rear window. A slight movement of lines that mark the body boundaries can challenge and release fixed ideas. This move is a moment, where everything is refined and reduced into a single point of touch, between discovery and covary, between the cutting and the connecting. It is about communication, in private or public.

Vautrait seeks to subvert the temporal to find the timeless in order to grasp it with tenacity. Sophisticated with a playful frame of mind the SS23 collection experiments with classics through bold yet wearable silhouettes with attention to detail and techniques nicely representing the line’s feminine-masculine contrasts.