ANCIELA Spring/Summer 2023 - ODE TO THE PAPAYA

Droguett has woven Latinx empowerment into her brand’s DNA, celebrating iconic symbols of Latin pop whilst redefining stereotypes. She uses Anciela as a platform for Latinx creators on a mission to celebrate their voices in the British arts. Anciela’s Spring/Summer 2023 campaign is no exception, this time celebrating contemporary and diverse Latinx divas in Brooklyn, New York produced and shot by acclaimed Colombian photographer Camila Falquez and Argentinian stylist Lorena Maza.

The concept behind this collection is developed through the lens of Latin music divas such as the controversial Carmen Miranda, the iconic Celia Cruz and the electrifying La Lupe. The work and life of these musical icons defined much of Droguett’s upbringing in Colombia. “Mambo and salsa were our pop culture long before Shakira became famous, I was fascinated by the incredible costumes and how these women were shining like goddesses, even though they went through very difficult times, they constantly reinvented themselves. They were forces to be reckoned with, I deeply admire their journey and I identify with it as a minority in this industry”.

Themes of migration and identity have always been key to Droguett’s work since Anciela’s first collection. The collection was born from an exploration of both personal memories and historical references by playing with stereotypes of what is perceived as the “Latin aesthetic” since Carmen Miranda became the lady with the Tutti Frutti hat in the 1940s.

Mambo silhouettes with exaggerated ruffle sleeves and hems, sculptural banana-like skirts and sharp tailoring, are a homage to 60s show girls and the drama of the musical performance. Droguett’s juxtaposition of textures and concepts becomes second nature in every piece of the collection: light and dark, couture and street, glamorous and grotesque. In addition to the lush textiles, there is an infusion of street art and bright graffiti-inspired accents hand painted on the dresses made in collaboration with Colombian street artist VaneMG who painted a mural inspired by this project featuring portraits of the Latin divas in East London.

The commitment to sustainable practices is all over the fabrics including deadstock materials such as backpack mesh from Christopher Raeburn’s archive, repurposed tulle, and Irish hemp-linen jacquards. Fluid crepes and jerseys are provided by textile start-up Esce-tex in collaboration with Tencel Lux. Experimental jacquards were developed in collaboration with Textile Designer Alice Timmis, including woven checks with recycled cotton and new life yarns from post-consumer plastic bottles. As well as lustrous splatter jacquard, woven with rafia and recycled British yarns from iIinouiio.