Çal Pfungst | Sangue Novo | ModaLisboa – Core

MODALISBOA CORE. An event, co-organized with the Municipality of Lisboa, designed for, and about, our core. Five finalists, three awards, and one fashion show. SANGUE NOVO is our fave part of ModaLisboa. // @lisboafashionweek

SANGUE NOVO reaches its second and final phase, with the support of SEASIDE, an international brand of Portuguese origin, today with more than 100 stores in Portugal and a presence in Angola, France, Luxembourg and Mozambique and more than 30 years of history.

Designers are:

Çal Pfungst

Çal Pfungst is a transdisciplinary artist based in Portugal. His practice intersects Writing, Theatre, Installation and Fashion. He has a BA in Theatre (ESMAE, Porto) and a formation in Fashion Design (Modatex, Porto). In recent years, he has collaborated with the Artistic Association “A Leste” (Porto) and the Platform Yuuts Ruoy (Lisbon), in exhibitions and publications.
Through the Phenomenological and deconstructivist approach, Çal develops experimental work that transposes methodologies on the search for new forms, relations and limits of clothes.


Batman-the-fish is dead. I bought a new one. He died too. Natural causes. I had several fish and they were all called Batman. Maybe they were Batman reincarnated. Fish like Batman is called a black telescope, telescópio preto in Portuguese. You will never see a black telescope living in the wild because, like all Batmans, this variety of telescope is from artificial creation (like the star ones). But my love for Batman is not artificial. Never had pets again.


Darya Fesenko

Darya Fesenko graduated in Fashion Design from Modatex in Porto (2021). During her academic years, she discovered a passion for upcycling. Through her creations, she addresses dystopian worlds and appeals to social issues. Darya interned at the M+RC NOIR brand and is currently working at Ernest W. Baker.

MANUSCRIPTS DON’T BURN tells you a story about one of the most important parts of the novel “The Master and Margarita”, the Woland’s ball. The novel, written by Bulgakov, concerns a visit from the devil (Woland) to the officially atheistic Soviet Union. Besides turning Moscow upside down, he needs to find his Margarita in order to throw the ball, as he does every year.

“THE BAAAAAALL!”, shouted Behemoth. Margarita, the queen of the night, was transported arm-in-arm with Koroviev to a lavish ballroom. She looked so confident and fierce, as she was wearing a mini black dress that reminded her of armour. Before that, only her long hair was covering her body.
Ready to greet the guests, she was standing close to a huge fireplace. As it turns midnight, coffins and gallows materialize from the fireplace. The human remains exit their coffins and transform into well-dressed party guests: suits, trousers, blazers, fancy gloves and kilts. Each of them respected impeccably the dress code of the night. The party, then, seemed to be a ceremonial tribute to evil in the world.

The MANUSCRIPTS DON’T BURN collection is the Designer’s personal interpretation of Wolland´s ball and, above else, is a tribute to one of the greatest novels of the 20th century.

“Manuscripts don´t burn”, uttered by the devil Woland, conveys the idea that authentic art is indestructible and eternal. This quotation has been immortalized as the keystone in Bulgakov´s legacy of upholding spiritual values and remaining true to one´s artistic vision above all else.

Inês Barreto

Inês Barreto, who graduated in Fashion Design at Modatex do Porto in 2021, seeks to develop particular themes of the mind and psyche. She addresses fashion not only with a personal and intimate character but in a way that aims to transcend the idea of creating clothes, always working through narratives that channel her voice. Inês Barreto is interested in the continuous processes of creation, in which the focus should not be on the finished form, but on learning, exploring, and continuous creation through connections established between different artistic fields from which the artist draws influence.

LET US EAT CAKE is the reflection of a young Designer about the fact that the Fashion she fell in love with in her childhood — with aesthetic and linguistic references like Vivienne Westwood or Alexander McQueen, and emotional ones, like her grandmother — is disappearing.

Inês Barreto takes an intimate approach to her practice, transcending the materiality of clothing to focus on narrative. In LET US EAT CAKE, Inês Barreto absorbs the challenges the Fashion System has gone through in the last year — from the Balenciaga scandals to the closure of Raf Simons’ eponymous brand, the death of Vivienne Westwood or Alessandro Michele’s departure from Gucci, culminating with Shein being named the most popular brand of 2022 — and interprets the superficiality she identifies in her generation through the subversion of materials. Liquid latex, a material she explored in her previous collection and which is entirely self-produced, is constantly confused with plastic, and Inês Barreto uses this inaccuracy to emphasize her point of view: a plasticized industry, materialized in a collection almost entirely in latex. To this social criticism, the Designer combines references to McQueen and Sofia Coppola.
“We know we’re destroying the world, but for now… let us eat cake”.


The brand Molly98 was created by designer Maria Duque, at the end of 2019, as an artistic identity focused on creating art from existing materials. Molly98 has grown into alternative slow fashion directed towards streetwear and clubwear, supported by the principle of circular economy, zero waste and conscious consumption, aiming to create a regenerative impact on the industry. In the last year, Molly98 was featured in magazines like Contributor, Pap, Neo2, and Harper’s Bazaar and dressed national and international musical artists on several occasions, video clips, concerts, festivals such as Rolling Loud, Vodafone Paredes de Coura, Nós Primavera Sound, among others.

Due to a very common education in Portugal, introduced by religious principles, Molly98 developed this collection on the theme of the Holly Family. By blood or not, Molly98 based her work on a contemporary version, referring to the current definition of family, where conservatism is left aside and new traditions are embraced. Rosaries and saints figures are exchanged for crystals and horoscope apps, and Sunday church becomes an after-party and a hangover. Comforting dysfunctionality and unconditional support are approaches that stand as essential pillars in this collection.

Niuka Oliveira

Niuka Oliveira (São Tomé and Príncipe,1999) studied at Escola Artística e Profissional Árvore in the Fashion Design Technical course, in 2015. In 2018, she joined the Fashion Design course at Modatex Porto, where she had the opportunity to explore the various aspects of fashion and design, open new horizons and begin the search for her identity as a creator.

As a student, she participated in several international competitions such as Euroskills (Austria, 2021), where she got 3rd place and the WorldSkills Competition Special Edition (Finland, 2022)

SELF KNOWLEDGE portrays the Designer’s inner world, questioning the insecurities, fears and uncertainties that have arisen after the conclusion of her academic career and the challenge of developing a new collection in a more solitary context.

The proposal goes through introspection and tries to understand where the creative block comes from, the doubts, the frustration and the eagerness to discover her identity and, above all, to get out of her comfort zone and decipher new means of expression.

The selection of different musical styles and different plastic approaches underlines different emotions that manifest the designer’s introspective journey. This journey, materialized through a diary of self-knowledge and organic illustrations, was the motto for the development of the collection.