One to watch Eva Heugenhauser

Introducing designer Eva Heugenhauser, an Austrian fashion designer and pattern maker in NYC for more than 2 years now. Eva´s recent design project is a 6-look fashion collection that Eva has produced out of a very special material – a self-made textile cooked out of water, gelatin and glycerin. This material is 100% biodegradable, which means it would simply “disappear” or dissolve when poured into hot water.

@evaheugenhauser

“With this collection, I aim to critically consider the concepts of longevity vs. ephemerality and therefore suggest an innovative and forward-thinking understanding of a sustainable design approach.

I am honoured that my project already sparked the fashion industry’s interest, nationally and internationally. With features in Vogue Italia, Vogue Germany, an ITS (International Talent Support) Contest – Award nomination, and more – I am happy that my project raises awareness all around the world and fights for a step towards a more sustainable fashion industry.”

KALTBLUT: Tell me how you first became interested in fashion; and why you decided to become a fashion designer.

I was definitely influenced by my family. Even though no one works in fashion, I have felt a lot of inspiration around me growing up. My father is an architect, and his precise drawings always fascinated me. From my mom I got my first sewing machine when I was only around 10 years old – and my grandmother gave me her pattern-making book, from which I learned the basics. So drawing, designing, as well as making and sewing soon became my biggest hobbies, and I then basically developed my two passions into my later career.

KALTBLUT: Tell me a little bit about your journey that led to you releasing your new collection.

The start of my recent design project was very theory-based. I did a lot of research on the concepts of value and its relationship with time. I wanted to find out, where the true value in our clothes can be found, and what the concepts of longevity vs. ephemerality have to do with that. Basically, I wanted to find the intangible value of a garment, far away from its material worth.

KALTBLUT: How would you describe your style and fashion?

My creative work focuses strongly on precision, tradition, and fit. To me, a perfectly fitted made-to-measure suit is one of the most impactful pieces of clothing, since it carries so much value, craftsmanship, and expertise in pattern making and manufacturing. This to me is the magic of a garment – how much passion and talent can be found during the process of making and creating.

KALTBLUT: Are there any fashion icons who inspire your design?

I am most inspired by those artists with a strong foundation in traditional and technical craftsmanship. In my opinion, only with this strong foundation, a designer is able to successfully transform their design visions and concept into reality. Examples of designers with this impactful expertise, from my point of view, are Alexander McQueen, Helmut Lang, and Rei Kawakubo, among others.

KALTBLUT: What would you say makes your design stand out against other brands?

My design concepts are based on abstract conceptual thinking, and the design outcome, therefore, is very experimental. My designs can therefore be considered a form of art, rather than daily streetwear. For me, fashion is the most tangible form of art which allows me to convey the message I want to share with society. My design collections are therefore the transmitter of my inner thoughts and desires.

KALTBLUT: Where do you find your inspiration for your work?

I get most of my inspiration from researching. I start with reading, thinking, considering, questioning, suggesting, reevaluating,… any thoughts that come up during this process. This helps me find out what exactly I feel most strongly about and where my next creative journey should lead to.

KALTBLUT: What advice would you give to people who want to experiment more with the clothes they wear?

Don’t think about what you want your garments to look like – think about what they make you feel like. The style that best fits you is not only what visually excites you, but most importantly, what makes you feel most comfortable and confident in your own skin.

KALTBLUT: What are your favourite pieces from your collection?

I am most proud of the final piece, a suit jacket and suit pants made out of my self-cooked gelatin fabric. What is so special about it is that it is 100% biodegradable, which means it would simply “disappear” or dissolve, when hot water is poured over it.

KALTBLUT: How would you describe the local fashion scene/industry in your home town/country?

I feel the focus is more on the functional aspect rather than the artistic beauty behind it. I would love to see more people discover the power that fashion can have when it comes to self-expression or conveying feelings and messages in a truly creative and impactful way.

KALTBLUT: What does being an independent designer mean to you?

I feel honoured that I can share my voice as a designer through creation. Many times it is hard to find the proper words or expressions for complex and difficult feelings and messages. Therefore, fashion serves as a truly powerful way to bring emotions across. It is not as direct as words, which allows the viewer to have room for interpretation. This space of interchanging thoughts and concepts is very crucial which allows our society to grow and expand.

KALTBLUT: If your brand was ice cream, what flavours would it be?

I’d love to say lemon because it is light, fresh and clean.

KALTBLUT: What was the last music track you listened to?

The last song I listened to earlier today was “Where the streets have no name” by U2.

KALTBLUT: Finally, what can we expect to see from you in the near future?

During my experimental design developments, I definitely realized how much more there could be discovered. The reality of sustainable textiles has only been recently addressed, and I am very sure there is still a lot to be done in order to further develop recent materiality developments. Apart from that, I also aim to strengthen my technical skillsets in pattern-making. This expertise is one of the most important steps during the development of a piece of clothing and I want to therefore focus on this craftsmanship.