Last weekend, May 3, 2025, ILLULAB @ Illuseum Berlin metamorphosed into a striking tableau of straw and gold for “JNN D’RC,” an evocative performative installation co-created by fashion visionary Elodie Carstensen and choreographer Marie Zechiel. Attendees were enveloped in an immersive sensory experience, where the earthy scent of fresh hay set the stage for a profound dialogue on identity, particularly the female experience, interwoven with humble materials, communal interaction, and a hint of theatrical fire.
The Hay Monument and the Provocative Inquiry: “Who Is She?”
At the heart of the installation loomed a monumental mound of hay, its golden tendrils crafting a tactile monument that felt intimate and unsettling. As guests encircled it, the space dimmed, and Andre Moghimi’s original sonorous composition fused with the haunting notes of Mozart’s Lacrimosa, creating an atmosphere heavy with anticipation. Within this golden mass, a solitary performer surfaced, standing in the straw clad only in a fluid underdress—an embodiment of the inquiry central to JNN D’RC: “Who is she?” This profound question reverberates, often addressed by many but rarely by the woman herself.
Drawing inspiration from the storied figure of Jeanne d’Arc—a quintessential warrior and martyr—Carstensen and Zechiel delve into the complexities of identity, the weight of societal expectations, and the juxtaposition of private truths against public personas.
The Gold-Leaf Ritual: Transformative Acts of Community
Each attendee was handed a singular gold leaf, a token of personal engagement. In a striking collective gesture, visitors approached the central figure, gently pressing their leaves upon her skin. Initially, a mere scattering of shimmer amidst the straw, by the conclusion of the ritual, hundreds of gold leaves coalesced into a flowing armour that refracted the gallery’s warm light. This intimate exchange became a shared commitment, echoing the idea that every creative venture—be it in art, fashion, or performance—thrives on myriad small contributions.
Inside the Circle: Movement and the Ethereal Dance of Dust
The ceremonial unfolding took place entirely within the walls of ILLULAB. Marie Zechiel’s ensemble of five dancers circled the hay monument, their choreography a blend of tender touches and reverent stillness. At the zenith of the performance, assistants stirred the hay, creating clouds of dust that shimmered like ethereal embers in the warm light—a visceral reminder of fragility intertwined with intensity. In that moment, the gallery ignited: a shared forge of community, artistry, and ritual.
The Climax of Collaboration: Rebirth Through Performance
As the music swelled, the central performer was gently liberated from her hay cocoon, showers of straw cascading around her. With the assistance of dedicated collaborators, the gold leaf armour was unveiled—an emblem of transformation. The metamorphosis from humble straw to radiant adornment reached its finale, prompting the audience to rise in spontaneous applause, now irrevocably interwoven into the narrative.
Resilience Amidst Adversity: Berlin’s Cultural Landscape
In the spring of 2025, Berlin’s vibrant arts scene trembled under the weight of diminished support, with critical funding slashed from institutions. “JNN D’RC” emerges as a direct response to this pressing reality. Utilising local, biodegradable hay and repurposed coffee-bean sacks, Carstensen makes a powerful statement on the do-it-yourself ethos sustaining underground communities when institutional backing dwindles. The gold-leaf ritual becomes a poignant reminder that every small act—whether a grant, a residency, or a visitor’s single gold leaf—contributes to something greater, shimmering and transformative.
Beyond its immediate ritualistic impact, “JNN D’RC” confronts societal dichotomies in the portrayal of women: the dualities of glorification and demonisation. This installation pays homage to resilience, echoing Marie and Elodie’s “semi-autobiographical” exploration of the challenges faced in the experimental realms of art and fashion amid dwindling resources. In this space, the haystack becomes both a cradle of safety and a looming cage; the gold armour, a celebration of strength and also a weighty burden.
About Elodie Carstensen
ELODIE CARSTENSEN stands as an avant-garde force within Berlin’s fashion landscape, operating her independent label as a creative laboratory. Each collection emerges from thorough material investigations—here, recycled coffee-bean sacks transform into opulent drapery, inviting contemplation on value, ceremony, and sustainability. Carstensen’s oeuvre straddles the liminal spaces of garment, installation, and performance, crafting immersive narratives through clothing.
About Marie Zechiel
MARIE ZECHIEL is a movement director whose choreographic prowess emphasises authenticity in gesture and character. A graduate of Trinity Laban Conservatoire, her sophisticated movement languages bridge narratives across fashion, performance, and gallery realms. She seamlessly traverses the domains of stage, film, and photography, with notable collaborations including VOGUE, Calvin Klein, and Mercedes-Benz.
Artists
• Marie Zechiel – Choreography
◦ www.mariezechiel.com
◦ Instagram: @mariezechiel
• Elodie Carstensen – Design & Installation
◦ www.elodiecarstensen.com
◦ Instagram: @elodie.carstensen
Performers:
◦ Lea Birkhoff @leabirkhoff
◦ Elizaveta Polyakova @elizaveta_polyakova
◦ Frederikke Hamberg @frederikkehamberg
◦ Stephani Ilova @stephanie.ilova
◦ Romina Geppert @rom.y.na
• Musik Komposition: Andre Moghimi @andremoghimi
• Foto: Mulinarius @mulinarius
• Video: Amnon Nono Bikovsky @nono_visuals
• MUA: Selin Yildrim @maske.selin, Chie Yamamoto @yamamotoartistry
• PA: Benji Werdin @benji.o.w
• Digital Design: Martin Heßmann @martinhessmann
• Sponsored by: Dr Martens @drmartensofficial, Lichtfetisch @lichtfetisch
