#MilanFashionWeek – The ANDANTE collection is a result of the emotional state of the designer Dima Leu that derives from a new attitude towards everyday life through a slower and less frenetic workstyle. This allows him to observe things with a new perspective and savour the aspects of his work with a more mature consciousness.
In search of decelerating time, the designer experiments by practising classical music at an improper tempo, slowing down complex musical constructions to a maximum in order to listen more deeply and discover new sounds. The same attitude prevails in the collection researching new perspectives through which to observe volumes and fabrics with a new vision. The same attitude prevails in the collection in search of new perspectives to observe shapes and fabrics through a new vision.
Dima Leu continues his constant research between two-dimensional and geometric constructions linked to the oriental cultures and the three-dimensionality of western tailoring, giving life to hybrid silhouettes with soft volumes. After experimenting last season on the shapes of the lapels, this time the attention is focused on the bottoms of the blazers and trousers, introducing sinuous cuts that shorten the volumes. The single-breasted blazer keeps a more formal aspect in the collection, but it is sometimes decontextualized with a hood, while the double-breasted style is presented in softer volumes with a short length.
The collection is contaminated by some elements of the workwear such as patch pockets and snap buttons. The experimentation around the workwear jumpsuit gives birth to loose aprons with a square neck that reminds the salopettes shape. From here starts a series of considerations on the classical gilet with the same shapes. Fitted shirts, designed in the wool pipeline and Japanese polyester organza, are finished with metallic big buttons, that gives them a new appeal. The collection displays some styles of luxury sportswear in a sophisticated key with a study on the hoodies turning them into easy-to-use pieces. The outfits are composed in the lower part by trousers and shorts of various lengths and volumes.
Classical fabrics in plain colours, with houndstooth and Glenn check designs, are contrasted with softer fabrics with a sporty look. The designer reinterprets them in a contemporary key through silhouettes linked to daily use. The colour palette moves on a contrasting range between classic masculine colours such as black, blue, white and beige and colours with more unusual shades such as matcha green, electric blue, lilac and ochre.
Established in 2015, Dima Leu is a menswear brand that appeals to both men and women. It debuted in February 2016 with DIMA LEU SPORT SUIT and DIMA LEUSTRIIPES, proposing a sophisticated reinterpretation of sportswear. The SPORT SUIT collections combine the freedom that sports garments grant to the body with the style of dobby fabrics. The garments are comfortable, and yet, thanks to their construction and the chosen fabrics provide an alternative to the tailored suit.
In September 2020, Dima Leu was awarded the menswear category WHO IS NEXT? prize a contest powered by Vogue Italia and Altaroma. In January 2021 Dima Leu debuted inMilan menswear calendar with the support of CNMI.
Photographe Giacomo Cosua
Stylist Francesco Casarotto
Chaussures Marsell
Perruques, costumes et maquillage Lorenzo Zavatta
