An interview taken from our new issue THE CLASS OF 2025! As we step into a vibrant new era for fashion, 2025 stands as a landmark year for the queer community to celebrate the unconventional genius of Sarah Effenberger and her brand, Effenberger Couture. Born in Berlin and shaped by the electrifying energy of the city’s notorious queer party scene, Sarah has skillfully combined unique prints, daring cuts, and playful details to create a fashion line that transcends traditional boundaries. Her designs are not just clothing; they are a powerful statement, a loud embrace of individuality and self-expression for people of all sexualities and gender identities.
In a world that often sidelines the creativity and flair of queer designers, Effenberger stands out as one of Germany’s most underrated fashion talents. Her work encompasses a daring vision that challenges norms and embraces vibrant identities, providing a refreshing alternative for those who crave more than the mundane offerings often found in menswear.
“Effenberger Couture is a true product of my time spent with and within this incredible scene.” This sentiment perfectly encapsulates the essence of Sarah’s journey and her commitment to celebrating the uniqueness of queer culture through fashion. Join us as we delve into this powerful interview with Sarah Effenberger, an exploration of the bold spirit of Effenberger Couture and its impact on the burgeoning world of queer fashion.
All photos by Kiko Dionisio @kikodionisio_photography
The model is Rene aka @bossbarbiebitsch
Follow Effenberger Couture @effenberger_couture
Sarah, how did your upbringing in Berlin’s dynamic queer party scene shape your perspective on fashion, particularly for Effenberger Couture?
Moving to Berlin at 19, long before founding Effenberger Couture, it was almost inevitable that I’d be influenced by the city’s dynamic queer party scene. I found some of my most glamorous and cherished friends within this vibrant, mostly queer, world. Surrounded by inspiring queer people from the start, this influence felt completely natural. An old party friend, seeing me after many years, summed it up perfectly by saying, “Finally, one of our fag hags found a way to make something out of it.” That captured it all, Effenberger Couture is a true product of my time spent with and within this incredible scene.
What drove you to specialize in men´s bodywear, and how do you feel it complements the current trends in gender-fluid fashion?
I have always designed for men, even during my studies. My interest in it grew over time, and I find it rather dull to design “for myself.” I much prefer creating something for the person opposite me. In the world of men’s fashion, you can still find so many intriguing tensions and creative possibilities. For me, that has always been the gender-fluid line, and I began experimenting with it early on during my studies, mostly inspired by styles from bygone eras. Fashion was so much more gender-fluid back then but unfortunately diverged during industrialization.
My focus has always been on giving men back the enjoyment and sensuality of fashion. Thankfully, in the gender-fluid scene today, we see a resurgence of that freedom to play, which brings me so much joy and fulfilment.
Effenberger Couture is known for its unique prints and bold silhouettes. What is your creative process for selecting these designs and materials?
Our creative process for selecting prints and silhouettes at Effenberger Couture draws heavily from historical imagery, vintage visual language, and pop culture. We immerse ourselves in these elements to develop a unique aesthetic that speaks directly to the queer community. Whether it’s creating a striking print for the next rave or placing a queer-focused message on items typically associated with heteronormative culture, our designs aim to reflect both beauty and relevance.
We often design pieces that reveal their deeper messages only upon closer inspection, inviting a second glance. Humour and playfulness are crucial to us, not just in our prints but also in the way we structure and shape each silhouette. Our goal is for each piece to be as expressive as it is fun, offering layers of meaning and joy to those who wear it.
Can you elaborate on your famous collaboration with Tom of Finland? What inspired this partnership, and how did it influence your brand’s identity?
The Tom of Finland collaboration felt like a true honour for us, almost a „knighting“ that we are right where we’re meant to be. From the beginning, we dreamed of working with images from the Foundation’s archive, so when we were invited to collaborate, it was almost surreal. Tom of Finland had a brilliant way of responding to a suppressed world for gay men through art, infusing it with humour and a distinctive style that spoke volumes. This is exactly what we intend to do with our fashion, so I think this was a match made in heaven.
We are beyond proud to feature his imagery in our pieces; it’s something we hold with deep respect. This partnership has not only strengthened our brand’s identity but also reinforced our commitment to bringing queer art into fashion. Moving forward, we’re inspired to continue this journey by going on to spotlight other queer artists, including those who may be lesser-known, to further celebrate and represent the diversity of our community.
Your collections are designed for individuals across all sexualities and gender identities. How do you ensure inclusivity in your designs? In what ways do you think Effenberger Couture challenges traditional norms in men’s fashion?
I mean, look at it… hahaha….
Effenberger Couture is far from conventional. Men’s fashion traditionally steers clear of daring elements like exposed buttocks, which remain provocative in a heteronormative context—unlike similar styles in women’s fashion, where they’re often seen as less shocking.
We are probably challenging traditional men’s fashion norms completely or not at all.
I’d say Effenberger Couture truly defies categorization within any corner of mainstream fashion. We exist somewhere between men’s fashion and leather fetishwear, perhaps “fetish-inspired fashion with a high-fashion edge.” Even for me, it’s challenging to place our style in one specific genre. We’re intentionally pushing boundaries and creating a unique, unapologetic space that doesn’t conform to the usual norms, and that’s what makes it exciting.
Comfort and functionality are essential in bodywear. How do you balance these aspects with aesthetic appeal in your creations?
To be honest, achieving that balance is quite straightforward with the materials we use. Stretch fabrics make it much easier to combine comfort and aesthetics. We’re always careful to select materials that feel soft and non-irritating against the skin, ensuring that wearability is never compromised. The elasticity of the fabric, particularly from the elastane content, allows for a flattering fit while maintaining the flexibility and comfort essential for bodywear. This way, our creations can look bold and stylish without sacrificing comfort or functionality.
What materials do you prefer to work with, and what specific characteristics do you look for when sourcing fabrics for your designs?
We primarily look for materials that feel comfortable for long wear, especially in club settings, where freedom of movement is key. Stretch is essential; we want bodysuits to mould the body beautifully without feeling overly tight.
Can you share any memorable feedback you’ve received from customers that has impacted your design philosophy or strategies?
We rely almost entirely on feedback from our community and customers, paying close attention to what resonates and what doesn’t. Without the indirect feedback from our customers, we wouldn’t have become experts in designing bodysuits for queer individuals with male body parts. Initially, we weren’t sure how well bodysuits would be received, but influencers and customers made it clear that this was exactly what they wanted from us. Being able to create these pieces, knowing they bring joy and confidence to our community, makes me incredibly happy and motivates our work every day.
You often incorporate playful details into your work. How do you approach the concept of fun in your fashion designs?
For me, fun is truly essential in design. I want people to enjoy wearing the pieces just as much as I enjoy creating them. Over time and with experience, I’ve realized that this sense of fun is what keeps me passionate about fashion—it’s the driving force that keeps me inspired to continue creating.
How do you envision the evolution of bodywear for men, and how does Effenberger Couture fit into that vision?
I truly hope to see more fun and playfulness return to everyday men’s fashion—more ruffles, bows, and more camp! The queer community already knows how to embrace this, but I’d love to see even more of it on the streets. At Effenberger Couture, we keep the commercial side of our pieces in mind, but we’re excited to push the envelope even further towards campiness. We’re ready to bring more bold, expressive bodywear that challenges norms and adds a sense of joy and freedom to men’s fashion.
Reflecting on your journey, what challenges have you faced in the fashion industry, and how have they shaped your brand?
I think the biggest challenge was pinpointing what I’m good at and having the confidence to pursue it seriously—without losing the element of fun. I had to learn to trust my instincts more and worry less about what everyone else was doing. Even if it sometimes makes you the odd one out in conventional fashion circles. Following trends or the fashion crowd can seem like the safer route, but I came to realize that carving out my path in the fashion world is gold. Creating and defining a unique niche that I can develop over time has become incredibly rewarding, even though it took a long journey to understand this fully.
Are there particular fashion icons or designers that you draw inspiration from, and how do they influence your design ethos?
There isn’t just one set of icons, I draw inspiration from a broad range of people—both past and present—who have dared to push boundaries and challenge societal norms.
Queer artists and art has always been a major source of inspiration for me. Already as a teenager, I was hooked if someone was playing with the gender roles. Icons like Tim Curry in The Rocky Horror Picture Show or Klaus Nomi—an incredibly unique and brilliant artist from near my hometown. Or let’s name some big ones like Freddie Mercury, George Michael, Ru’Paul, Tom of Finland, and John Waters, the obvious ones, were early influences that fueled my creativity.
Equally important are their allies—legends like Liza Minnelli, Cher, and Dolly Parton—who have embraced and celebrated queer culture, bringing its vibrancy to the mainstream.
I realize I tend to reference the old-school icons, but I’m an old soul and especially admire the boldness it took to be so unapologetic in their time and I am grateful for the path they have laid for us!
Those are the roots of my curiosity but every camp person of our time makes me happy and keeps me going.
The whole Camp culture, with its fearless embrace of eccentricity and boldness and this explosion of fun has been a constant source of energy and motivation for me.
But influences also come from my background and the social structures around me. For example, I’m fascinated by the contrasts between traditional institutions, like the Catholic Church, which has long held power in Europe, and the progressive ideals of the queer community. Medieval imagery and its portrayal of gender roles also inspire me, especially as I grew up in a medieval town close to the Alps. These sources all lead me to question and reinterpret the heteronormative past but also pop culture and its conventions.
However, If I had to choose one designer as a role model, it would be Jean Paul Gaultier. He has always played with gender roles in such an iconic way, and despite his enormous success, he has remained humble and grounded. That’s something I admire deeply.
read the full interview here:
