London Fashion Week for the Fall 2021 season was entirely digital, but makeup was definitely still an important part of catwalks, films and presentations. The trends were seen this season are varied: they reflect the current situation we live in, but also gives a positive and hopeful outlook on the future or offer an escapist alternative to reality. After observing the looks, four main trends seem to dominate our screens. Let’s take a moment to have a look at all of them.
Words by Martina Derosa @martinaderosa_mua
NATURAL
This is a must in every fashion week, but in this season it is even more contemporary and rises as the star of the show. Impacted by the current climate, the most popular trend is all about comfort and confidence, with a heavy focus on skincare. The makeup process consists of enhancing the skin, making it look plump, healthy, and working with balancing matte and dewy textures, for a more sculpted effect. Natural in this case translates to effortless and can be seen, as Terry Barber describes it, as an “Economy on beauty”. Unfortunately, often it also translates as boring and a missed opportunity to create something more striking.
Some key make-up artists however found the way to elevate this trend, make it more refreshing while still staying true to its minimalism. The naturally radiant skin is used as a blank canvas to apply embellishments, giving it a more edgy feeling but always keeping it quite minimal. The most interesting looks from this category must be Bora Aksu, keyed by Janeen Witherspoon, where each model is adorned with a differently coloured Astrantia flower underneath the eyes. Others exploring this trend with different materials are Isamaya Ffrench for Burberry with black and white stars and crystals, placed on the models’ faces to form constellations and Tania Grier for Jordanluca with the application of fake eyebrow piercings against the beautiful rich glowy skin.
NUANCE
The second most popular trend seems to be all about blending and blurring, subtle colours, that are all about placement. They can be very emotive, romantic or more impactful and edgy depending on the application. The edges are blurred or undone, and the looks are generally very wearable, thus relatable for the general public.
The colours are often mellow, understated and seem to be coming from within the models’ skin. The looks seem like a nod to Romanticism and Rococo complexions in 18th-century paintings. These nuances have been explored in different ways. From the most imperceptible wash of colours, extremely veiled and diffused, as in Simone Rocha “cameo brooch complexions” created by key make-up artist Lauren Parsons, to a bolder and heavier application, as the ones designed by Miranda Joyce for Molly Goddard, which, with the strong pink high blush and matching lips recalls of 80s makeup but with a more punk and modern twist. Overall, quite an interesting and varied trend, that is “user-friendly” while still being high fashion.
GLAM
Talking about 80s inspiration, I can’t help but think about another direction for this LFW: Glam. It’s going out makeup, that can be seen as a nostalgic reminder of happier, freer times or as an optimistic hope for the near future. The eyes, in this case, become the main focus of the looks, which makes them more approachable and realistic in a period when wearing a mask has become the new normal. The eyes are then highly decorated by colourful and metallic shades, glitters, strong liners and fake lashes to make them stand out. It’s a statement and immediately seems exciting, compared to the countless dewy skins seen before. Although the 80s are not the most original reference, the look created is still eye catching and will make heads turn.
The quintessential example of this trend is the Mark Fast runway, with makeup by Pablo Rodriguez, Director of Artistry for Illamasqua. The look captures the effect of light reflecting on water, achieved with metallic silver eyeshadow and chunky silver glitter on top of the lash line, catching the light when models blink. The look is then finished off with a load of mascara, corner lashes and a defined brow.
EXPRESSION
The final and more striking trend feels like a breath of fresh air and breaks the monotony of the previous ones and is my personal favourite. I am talking about Expression: as the name already suggests, these looks express creativity without constraints, it’s a true celebration of individuality, creativity and colour. It’s the representation of the most authentic self, an escapist dreamscape, free from the rules and standards of beauty. A strive for expression, not perfection.
This translates to models all having quite different and unique looks, with a more diy and raw feel.
And makeup artist YiHao does this perfectly in Pronounce’s new collection “Embryo”. Among the most striking looks we can find a punk sharp magenta contour with a strong black lip and liner; a more painterly look with a white base, thin black brows, black smudged liner and splashes of watercolour paints; and finally a body paint of broken pieces of decorated porcelain.
David Giller’s work for Linus Leonardsson is another great example of the Expression trend. The looks are characterised by strong colours, applied in different patterns: blue flowers recalling the prints of the garments, or more abstract ones as airbrushed green and yellow stripes covering the whole face.
All things considered, this wasn’t the best and most exciting moment for London Fashion Week beauty. It often left me feeling wanting more and a bit underwhelmed. Yet, it is great to see that, even in a fully digital LFW, make-up was not forgotten, and the variety of looks that make-up artists have created.
I am now personally looking forward to reviewing a new season were hopefully expression and creativity will take over.
Words by Martina Derosa @martinaderosa_mua
