No Grey Area launched their F/W2023 collection “Neithal”, continuing the brand’s heartfelt tribute to authenticity in South Asian cultural representation this season in depictions of nocturnal flora and fauna of the Madras beach at night, taken from Sangam Literature. Kashmiri heritage is interwoven through the collection, with colours taken from Kahmir rugs adorned with Aari, Zari and mirror-work hand-embroidery and handloom pashmina fabrics. Under the Creative Direction of Founder Arnav Malhotra, No Grey Area is an exploration of cultural ancestry – a homage to the past, presentation and future, and a representation of vibrant, self-reflective, modern Indian design.
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Neithal is conceptualised from ancient Tamil literature, the earliest known literature of South Asia, and specifically Poem No. 194 from the anthology Ainkurunuru, full of symbolism and Indian mythology. It is a journey to the seashore of Madras as twilight turns dark. A story of life’s simple pleasures, a walk through the dimly lit streets and ending on the vast beaches of oceanfront Chennai. As the city’s humidity hangs heavy in the air, the flora and fauna along the seashore thrive – heron’s symbolising grace, the cormorant’s symbolising patience and freedom, pandan leaves signifying openness, and waterlilies symbolising resurrection in Hindu culture.
The No Grey Area F/W23 collection revisits signature Saree, Kurta and Dhoti silhouettes elevated through new fabrications, including luxury pashmina wool which is only loomed in Kashmir, and hand-looming this with suiting wools to create an innovative new contemporary luxury textile allowing greater structure. Velvet, Italian suiting, and upcycled cashmere complete this season’s textural palette.
Neithal is an anecdotal and visual sketch of The Night at The Beach, collating Chennai’s nocturnal ecosystem and documenting the lunar phases in the journey of the moon, crafted to inspire spiritual connection in the wearer between heaven and earth, light and dark, bringing perspective from the stars and a moment of simple peace and reflection in balance to the pace and noise of our modern world and all its complexity.
No Grey Area is an ode to South-Asian culture through the lens of everyday clothing, bringing to the fore an inclusive, sustainable, practical proposition through authentically informed solutions rooted in heritage and culture.
