Introducing designer Luke Martin. Photography by Sebastian Candiolliv. The models are Iker Elvira and Luke Martin. A KALTBLUT exclusive. Luke is a designer who was born in Spain but has spent his life in Los Angeles and London, where he worked at the Royal Academy of Arts and Louis Vuitton until he decided to drop everything and start living his own dream.
Although fashion occupies a large place in his life, the time has come to explore more branches of expression that complement this creative process, such as music production to give his shows their own sound, and cinema to create short films or photography. Now He is currently presenting his collection You Forever!
It is a collection that was designed as a farewell. Sometimes situations arise in life that causes us a catharsis. Through this work, he wanted to represent that turning point where we decided to say goodbye and start a new way.
He started designing it by creating armour that represents the armour that we all put on after a period of mourning and how this armour gradually becomes a mere accessory when the people that are capable of crossing it arrive.
Embroidery in metallic beads acquires a fundamental role in mixing haute couture techniques with a cyberpunk aesthetic. The chromatic range with which he has worked in the collection reflects this progression from black, which symbolizes darkness and mourning, to silver, which represents a moment of empowerment to reaching gold, which symbolizes that state of calm and harmony similar to the one we feel when We see a beautiful sunset with someone we love.
Through these elements we wanted to create a timeless collection, creating a dreamlike atmosphere. It is the announcement of a rebirth with the new era of his work.
See you 4ever @houseoflukemartin
KALTBLUT: Tell me how you first became interested in fashion; and why you decided to become a fashion designer.
I really have no idea when I first got interested in it. I remember that since I was very little I liked to dress up and create characters.
Later on, growing up when I began to become aware of the fashion business, I met Mr. Lagerfeld and John Galliano and I was fascinated, that’s when I said I want to be a fashion designer. I´ve decided to do it because I design as I breathe, which is the way to express my feelings otherwise I could get crazy.
KALTBLUT: Tell me a little bit about your journey that led to you releasing your new collection.
Almost all my collections are confessional and talk about me, from there I can find visual references but it always starts as an expression of myself, my creative process is similar to that of a singer writing his songs. In this, I wanted to tell how after many years in a toxic relationship I managed to get out of there and I started working on it creating armour that meant the armour that I had to wear, something like creating my own army, it was clear to me that I wanted to start with black looks and light ones that represented that dark and mourning process, then looks transforming into silver that represented that phase of empowerment to finish with the golden look that somehow represented serenity and peace like the one you feel when you watch the sunset with someone you love.
In the beginning, I thought that I could not determine more museums or inspire myself aesthetically in anyone until someone appeared who crossed that barrier…
KALTBLUT: How would you describe your style and fashion?
the best way to describe my fashion is with two words: Luke Martin
I think that tags limit us and tomorrow I can be the opposite of what Im today, I like the idea of reinventing myself and rising. My next collection has nothing to do with the previous one.
About my style, I can tell you that something that I use often in my work is the use of haute couture elements and I try to adapt it to the street.
KALTBLUT: Are there any fashion icons who inspire your design?
Yes, of course as I said before Mr Lagerfeld inspires me as a figure and his own style (Im not crazy about his collections) lifestyle and mind to be able not only be a designer, take his own photographs, direct films… he also gave me a good advice when I met him.
Regarding Fashion I’m in love with John Galliano since I was a kid, I remember when I was 10 years old he signed for me an autograph in Paris at an Antiques Store in Le Marais, years later I was having dinner next to his table at British Fashion Awards and he was really nice to me, he encouraged me to start my brand! And finally, Alexander Mqueen is such an inspiration, his way of feeling fashion… the concept of everything! those 3 are my Icons
KALTBLUT: What would you say makes your design stand out against other brands?
Myself! I feel that I’m not competing with anyone because what I do is too personal, it is my own life and another person cannot tell it for me. My work is an extension of me.
KALTBLUT: Where do you find your inspiration for your work?
I don’t look for it, it finds me, the ideas simply come to me and when I see a good one I start to develop it but the starting point always comes to my head by accident.
Im also inspired by the people with whom I maintain a relationship or who inspire me as muses
KALTBLUT: What advice would you give to people who want to experiment more with the clothes they wear?
I don’t believe in general advice… It depends on the person as there are no formulas. It depends where you live, what’s your lifestyle… but I could say that Life is short, be yourself and dress for your pleasure not for the rest.
KALTBLUT: What are your favourite pieces from your collection?
It’s complicated to say because I’m Already thinking about the next one but… at the beginning was the Silver armour Im wearing in the pics, but then on the shooting day I saw Iker wearing the golden jacket and I Fucking fell In love. The Way that sunset lights reflect on his Skin, The mirrors reflecting the sequins from the Jacket…. I felt something like he was a movie star … so I should say those 2
KALTBLUT: How would you describe the local fashion scene/industry in your home town/ country?
It’s complicated because I don’t feel like I belong anywhere, I like to travel and I feel that any city is my home.
But I could talk about Europe, which is where I live in general.
I think that fashion is more focused on business than on art… I think that it is a time in fashion that is very close to Andy Warhol philosophy’s
Functional clothing that is sold with amazing marketing strategies… something very far from the haute couture shows that John did for Dior… I would love for people to dream of fashion again… but we live in a moment in which the world moves too fast.
KALTBLUT: What does being an independent designer mean to you?
It doesn’t mean anything, it’s just what I do, I could complain about the differences I’ve in terms of infrastructure with big companies but it doesn’t make sense, you can’t go to a gunfight with a sticking knife…
It means that I have to play my own cards and not compare myself with others. Otherwise, you can get frustrated
KALTBLUT: If your brand was ice cream, what flavours would it be?
It could be all of them, it depends on the collection but probably coffee because I need a lot of coffee to work at night at the atelier.
KALTBLUT: What was the last music track you listened to?
CUUUUuuuuuuute By Rosalia
KALTBLUT: Finally, what can we expect to see from you in the near future?
There are a lot of things going on, I’ve designed another Menswear collection that comes out in July and I hope to present it with Iker because part of the inspiration comes from him. Also, I’m currently working on a Collectión to get it ready for Septembre/October and I’ve been producing music and I will release my first EP this summer! I’m studying photography and I would like to do editorials… so probably all of this you will see this year, but I would love to make a movie or short film soon, I’ve got some ideas already!
Photography by Sebastian Candiolliv Instagram: @tatocandiolli
Creative Direction: Luke Martin @houseoflukemartin
Models are Iker Elvira and Luke Martin / Instagram: @ikerelviraa @houseoflukemartin
